SB 

THE FARMERS GARDEN 

AND 

Its Management 




Published by 

JOHN T. TEAT 

Price 50 Cents. 

hull pendent Press. Csrrdington <> 




Class 


ST595 


Book 


Tza 


GopyrightN 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



♦ ♦♦ vUv ♦♦♦ 



jf armer's <$arfc>en, 



AND ITS 
MANAGEMENT. 



j{ ^Practical Suicie to Success- 
ful Sardentngj 



AztflTH 



flotes On Injurious Insects, 

THE LAWN 

find the Galtare ol Flowers, 

...BY..: 

JNO, T. TEKT, 
it 

1896-8. 



TWO COPIES RECEIVED, 

Library of Cofigp98% 
Offleo of the 

MAR ?. 1900 

Ksgistor of Copyrights 



56010 



Copyrighted, 1898, 

BY 

JNO. T. TEAT, 

CARDINGTON, OHIO. 



SECOND COPY, 






Author's Preface. 



In writing this treatise, it has been the author's earnest 
endeavor to treat the subject chosen in a plain, practical 
and concise manner, easily understood by all. 

While aware of the fact that there are many excellent 
works on the "garden and its management," a great many 
of them do not meet the requirements of the beginner, they 
being written in too professional a manner, not easily un- 
derstood b}^ those who are } T oung in this pleasant and prof- 
itable employment — gardening. 

The author believes this work will be found complete in 
its way, simple in construction, plain and practical, and 
trusts it will be of assistance to you in supplying your re- 
quirements; and, too, we hope you will find some interest 
in its pages whether you are an amateur or a professional. 
Such has been our earnest endeavor, and we trust it will be 
recognized as a trustworthy guide. 

After a careful study of its pages, even the most inex- 
perienced should be able to care for the Kitchen Garden, be 
it an acre, or more, or less. And as a beautiful, well-kept 
lawn, with its beds of flowers, adds much to the attractive- 
ness of rural as well as city homes, we have added notes on 
the preparation of the one and the culture of the other, so 
that you may not only be supplied with an abundance of 
the finest vegetables and fruits, but also enjo} r the delights 
of home life through its surrounding attractions. 

The notes given on the care of the lawn and the culture 
of flowers are fully as trustworthy as those given on the 
care of the Garden, and if followed, success will be reason- 
ably assured. 

And now, kind reader, we commend it to your care, hop- 
ing you will make an aquaintance agreeable to all. So, 
wishing you great success in your labors, we beg to remain 
your faithful and humble servant, 

John T. Teat. 

Cardington, O., Jan. 3, '96. 



' ' Gardening is an occupation 
for which no man is too high 
nor too low. ' ' 



The Farmer's Garden 

And Its flanagement. 



INTRODUCTORY. 

^^HE GARDEN is generally regarded as one of the 
CJv most insignificant parts of the farm — frequently more 

,iu of a nuisance than anything else — only to be tolerated 
yjl^ to satisfy the whims of the "wimen folks," while if 

A cared for as it should be we would find it to be one 
of the most profitable plots of ground on the farm. 
So firmly grounded is this nuisance idea in the masculine 
mind that no effort is made to cultivate a really good one, 
and thereby ascertain the real value of a generous supply of 
crisp and delicious vegetables on the table throughout the 
year. Do not be content with raising the common varieties 
only, but have a place for everything and everything in its 
place. 

This not being the case, we may be pardoned for scolding 
a little and for taking the part of the too often sadly neg- 
lected farmer's garden, when it should be a tempting feat- 
ure of every home. There is no country in the world cap- 
able of producing a greater or better suppky of table "sass" 
than is ours. Every family in the land should be constantly 
supplied with the best vegetables and fruits, which is of 
great advantage to health, and reduces the grocer's, butcher's 
and doctor' s bills. In writing this treatise we shall endeavor 
to give a few practical points to aid 3 r ou in making a start. 

The limited number of vegetable and fruit gardens worthy 
of the name found in connection with rural homes is realty 
astonishing when it is remembered that the farmer has facil- 
ities for gardening, if properly used, to distance all compe- 
tition, and thereby not only improve the health of his own 
family but also add man}- a dollar to his income. He has 
his choice of soil as well as fertilizers and ample horse power 
to aid him in tilling the soil; and yet, of all gardens, the 
farmer's garden is too often the most sadly neglected and 
valueless. 



6 - THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Quite true, farm life is very busy at the season of the 
year when the garden calls for attention, and this is perhaps 
the reason for the neglect shown in the farmer's garden. 
The family of the town can find a supply on the market but 
this is quite often of inferior quality; but the farmer's fam- 
ily often has to go without even these, when the very best 
of everything could be had in abundance throughout the 
year by a little effort being put forth on the part of the 
farmer. All quick-maturing crops require much richer soil 
than those that require a longer season in which to reach 
maturit}'-. L-ate peas, like marrowfats, etc., will yield a 
good crop on moderately rich soil, without manure, while 
the early varieties that mature in May require an abundance 
of plant food easily available early in the season. The same 
is true of most all, if not all, crops; the shorter the time in 
which they mature the better chance they must have. 

In all crops that require to be thinned, every day's neg- 
lect after the plants are large enough to thin reduces the 
crop. This work should be done promptly as soon as you 
can get hold of them with thumb and finger. The same is 
true of all delicate crops that require hand-weeding as they 
should be cleaned out as soon as the row can be seen. A 
delay of a few days or even hours will double the work and 
the loss of a week's time may ruin the crop; then, too, a 
wet spell may give the weeds such a start that it will be 
impossible to save the crop. 

The time to destroy weeds is before they come up, while 
the mere stirring of the soil as soon as dry enough after a 
rain destroys most of the weeds that have started, besides 
giving your crop a start over the few weeds that may be 
left. Make it a rule that no weed, no, not even the finest 
specimen, shall go to seed on your garden, or better still, 
on your farm. The average garden ripens enough noxious 
seeds every season to supply the entire community. Judg- 
ment must be used in covering seeds of various kinds, and 
the amount of soil and compacting must be regulated ac- 
cording to the season. 

Seeds sown early require light covering and little or no 
pressing of the soil, while midsummer planting requires more 
soil over them, which should be packed firmly about them. 

All crops which come up small and require hand-weed- 
ing should be sown in straight and very narrow drills. If 
a crooked furrow is made it will require very much more 
hand- weeding to keep them clean, compared to what there 
is when a straight drill one inch wide receives the seed. 

Where land is to grow a second crop, as in the case of 
early peas, beans, spinach, potatoes, etc. , everything should 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 



be on hand to do the work at once and take advantage of 
suitable weather that may come. All work must be done 
promptly and at just the right time or the labor will be 
greatly increased. 

In nearly all cases the hoe and the rake can be used to 
advantage before the seeds come up, and right over the row, 
too, if carefully used. The weeds will thus be kept in check 
and the moisture retained for the future use of the crop. 

I rather like the idea of keeping the ground covered with 
vegetation throughout the season, as there will be more 
encouragement to keep it clean and in the very best con- 
dition, and looking its very prettiest. Whenever possible 
sow a crop of rye for plowing under in the spring, if the 
plowing is not done in the fall. Or sow it anyway. 

The Location. 

The kitchen garden should be located as near the house 
as possible and should not be located on another road half 
a mile from the house, thereby compelling the ' 'gude' ' wife 
to travel all over a quarter-section every time she wishes a 
few vegetables for dinner or supper. But when located near 
the house it should be enclosed by a poultry tight fence, or 
I am afraid someone will say something not suited for pub- 
lication; for "biddy" seems to know just where the hills 
are that contain the choicest varieties. In choosing a loca- 
tion I would prefer a plot in the shape of a parallelogram; 
that is, about twice as long as wide, provided the land that 
can be appropriated admits of this shape. 

This plot should contain about an acre, more or less, to 
suit your own individual requirements; but an acre will 
give sufficient space for everything from radishes, onions, 
lettuce, etc., to potatoes, corn and small fruits. On the 
outside next the boundaries a border of about ten feet wide 
should be left for the growing of the smaller vegetables; on 
the sunny side, those that mature earl)- in the season and 
on the northernly side those varieties that require shade. 

Before going farther, I will sa3^ that the garden should 
be as nearly level as possible, or if sloping, not so much so 
as to be in danger of being washed by heavy rains. If 
sloping, it should be toward the south or east, and should 
be so situated as to have a good surface drainage, for with- 
out this, or under-draining, it is almost impossible to raise 
early or fine vegetables at a profit. 

These are to be considered the most essential points in 
selecting a plot for a garden. Of course, a rich soil is to 
be desired, but if that is deficient the gardener can, by the 



8 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

use of manure, remedy a deficiency of this kind in a few 
seasons, while he cannot make a favorable location for early 
vegetables on a north slope if he should endeaver to do so 
for a lifetime. If it were possible, I would have no fence 
around the garden, as it is usually more of a nuisance than 
anything else, being overgrown with weeds, and a waste of 
ground where it is not a necessit}^. But if a fence is neces- 
sary, have a good one so as to keep out poultry as well as 
stock. 

The gardener has no use for a scratching hen, cats, dogs, 
etc. , in his beds of plants, for these are his most aggravat- 
ing enemies. A scratching hen seems to know just where 
the choicest seeds are planted, while cats and dogs like to 
roll in a bed of plants. 

In plowing the ground in early spring I would not plow 
more than is needed for the first planting, and the remainder 
when the soil has become more dry and friable, as it will 
not then become packed by the heavy spring rains which 
are sure to come about this time of the year. For the first 
planting the ground should be plowed and the seeds sown 
as soon as the ground can be prepared ; the hardier varieties 
such as peas, radishes, onions and lettuce, will even stand 
a slight frost, and while adapting their growth to the weather 
will be ready to smile a welcome on the first warm spring 
days. 

Sometimes we cannot wait for the soil to be in the ver}^ 
best condition, as in a drought, when we wish to plant a 
second crop. In this case it must be brought into as fine a 
condition as possible, b}- rolling and harrowing. The 
former is often neglected in the average garden. 

The small fruits should all be on one side of the garden 
where they will not interfere with the working of the rest 
of the garden in spring or fall. In planting, the width of 
the cultivator and swingle-tree must be taken into consider- 
ation. 

If the soil has been heavily manured, the rows may be 
planted as closely as will admit of cultivation and allow a 
good supply of sun and air to reach the roots, excepting 
melons, cucumbers, squashes, etc. , which should have am- 
ple room to make a spread and sun themselves. 

Bush beans, dwarf peas, etc. , can be sown as closely as 
two feet, while corn, pole beans and other tall-growing crops 
should be at least three feet apart each way, while small- 
growing crops such as onions, lettuce, radishes, spinach, 
etc. , can be sown as closely as one foot apart, not only to 
admit of working but to allow sun and air to reach the 
roots. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 9 

The Soil of the Garden. 

Soil on which some cultivated crop has been grown is 
preferable to sod for starting a garden, as it is more easily 
brought into a fine condition in earl}- spring. Another fault 
is that grass is also one of the hardest weeds to destroy 
among small crops such as onions and radishes. Sod is also 
often infested with grubs, which prey upon young tomato, 
cabbage and vine plants. Whether new land, or in the old 
garden, it is best to put all coarse manure on in the fall and 
plow it under as soon as the ground can be cleared. 

The land should be plowed in the fall and left as plowed. 
A plow with a straight mould board should be used for fall 
plowing, as it leaves the moulds more on edge and therefore 
more to the action of the frost, which will be of great bene- 
fit to heavy soils that are late in drying out in the spring, 
which is of great advantage, as ever}' kind of products can be 
gotten in when the proper season arrives, while it also adds 
much to the appearance of the garden. A few days too 
late may mean failure. The gases arising from the decay- 
ing of the manure also tends to lighten the soil instead of 
being wasted in the air, as when in heaps or in the barn- 
yard. Such manure, when applied in the spring, makes dry 
soil still dryer, and unless plowed well down where it will 
do the young plants little or no good, it would .burn them 
up if the season should be hot and dry. 

By plowing time in the spring this manure will have be- 
come thoroughly mixed with the soil and will be worked 
through the soil, thus affording an abundance of plant food 
in all stages of growth. Manure is the food of all plants, 
and you must afford an abundance of available plant food if 
you expect good returns from your vegetable or fruit garden. 
Garden soil sometimes becomes surfeited with stable ma- 
nure. In this case cover with lime, use commercial fertil- 
izer, or plow under a crop of clover or other soiling crop; 

Unfortunate is the gardener who fails to see the adapta- 
bility of his soil which must in a certain degree decide the 
value of the crop he grows. A poorly adapted soil is a great 
drawback to successful gardening. 

Preparing the Soil. 

The time of plowing varies to meet the requirements of 
different soils, seasons and localities; and every piece must 
be considered by itself. Means should be taken for starting 
the plow as soon as circumstances permit. 

In dry soils and well drained localities the plow can be 
used much earlier than on heavv soils. Nothing is gained 



10 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

by plowing heavy soils until they are in a proper condition, 
but rather the reverse, for they will become lumpy and it 
will be late in the season before the lumps can be pulverized 
and brought into a condition to impart nutriment to the 
growing crops. 

If the plowing has been left till spring such soils should 
be plowed when in that condition of moisture to insure mel- 
lowness and fine tilth. To determine when soil is in the 
the right condition for plowing or cultivating, take a portion 
in the hand; if it packs and sticks to your fingers it is too 
wet, while if it crushes hard it is too dry. In both cases it 
will be hard and lumpy, and will take a long time to bring 
it to the condition necessary for good results. 

A loose, well pulverized soil allows the air to circulate 
freely among its particles, and the spreading roots of the 
plants reach out and draw their sustenance from a more ex- 
tended surface than in soils which have assumed a compact 
form. Seeds sown on a compact soil cannot be expected to 
produce other than a sickly growth of plants. It should be 
borne in mind that a good crop on one acre is better than 
half a crop on two acres. The production of crops is not a 
matter of chance as many may suppose, but depends on the 
care bestowed upon them. While it may not be possible to 
choose such soil as is desired, much may be done in the way 
of artificial improvement by draining, manuring, etc. 

The soil should be well drained unless of such a nature as 
to render this unnecessary. Muck, manure and other fer- 
tilizers should be abundantly used. A sandy loam is one of 
the best soils we have, being rich in vegetable matter. Al- 
luvial soils are well adapted to vegetables but not to small 
fruits. One of the best soils we have is a rich, gravelly 
loam. Such soil retains moisture longer than a sandy soil 
and is adapted to the growth of a greater variety of crops 
than any other and when mixed with vegetable matter is 
one of our most valuable soils. 

Another point of importance is the fining and compacting 
of the soil as soon as plowed in hot, dry weather. In pre- 
paring soil for garden crops during summer it is best not to 
wait to do a whole day's plowing, but every few hours to 
pulverize what has been plowed, and for this purpose there 
is nothing better than the plank drag. Evaporation is so 
rapid in the hot summer days that land will often dry out 
in a single day so that a good seed bed cannot be formed 
unless the soil is pulverized immediately after plowing. 

Tools. 

Although not really necessary, it is of great advantage to 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 11 

, have an assortment of tools for thoroughly preparing the 
soil, and to facilitate the labor of caring for the crop and 
destroying weeds and insects. 

Where the garden is cared for as it should be there will 
be little or no chance for the weeds to start. While there 
is generally an assortment of 'tools on ever} 7 farm suitable 
for use in the garden, I will give a list of those adapted to 
garden use. 

First is the Plow. For breaking the ground in spring 
use a common two-horse plow. This puts the manure down 
as desired and takes a generous slice at each cross. So long 
as the fresh manure does not come in direct contact with 
the plants it will be hardly possible to put on too much, but 
it is best to use nothing but thoroughly decayed manure. 
It is also best to cut a narrow furrow when plowing, as then 
the manure becomes more thoroughly incorporated with the 
soil. Always keep your tools bright, sharp and clean, as it 
is much easier to use a bright, sharp hoe or plow; then too, 
the work is done in a much better style than where dull, 
rusty tools are used. And, it will go to show that you too 
are also sharp and bright. 

Next to the plow comes the Harrow, which should also 
be sharp; it is then a splendid tool for making a fine seed 
bed on which to sow seeds, or for setting out small plants. 
Where more land has been broken than is needed for im- 
mediate planting, it is a good plan to run over it with the 
harrow, keeping it clean and in good condition for planting, 
as you can take advantage of a shower to set out cabbage, 
tomato, celery and other plants while the soil is wet. Com- 
mence planting when, or just before, the rain begins so that 
the plants will receive the benefit of the shower. 

Next comes the Roller, which is very hand} 7 for pulveriz- 
ing the soil when hard and lumpy. A small hand roller 
about three feet long is very convenient for rolling in small 
seeds when sown by hand. The value of compacting the 
soil about freshly sown seed, especially in summer, cannot 
be over-estimated. 

The Wheel Hoe is a very convenient tool in the caring 
for crops and should be one of the best obtainable. A good 
implement does not throw the dirt over small plants, and 
the rows can be worked closely, so that it is unnecessary to 
go over the rows with a hand hoe after the plants have been 
thinned. Keep all cutting parts bright and sharp. To ob- 
tain the best results with this tool you should go over each 
row two or three times so as to work the soil over thoroughly. 
When kept sharp and bright it will surprise you to note 
how easy it is to run one, and how much better w r ork is 



12 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

done; and a man can hoe an acre a day when the soil is in 
good condition. 

A Seed Drill is a very convenient implement, but is quite 
expensive and not practical in the garden when we consider 
that it is not often that there are more than one or two rows 
sown to an} T one kind of seed, 'and this can be done in almost 
the time it would take to set the drill. The combined drill 
and hoe is a delusion and a snare. Don't experiment. If 
you want a satisfactory tool don't have any combinations 
about it. 

And, too, you will need a good strong garden line, long 
enough to reach across the garden. This will be very use- 
ful to assist in laying out the garden neatly. A good line 
well cared for will last for years, and will be one of the re- 
quisites for the garden as there must be no hit or miss work 
if you expect to succeed, as every plant must be in the row. 
Where it is necessary to keep a few inches from the row to 
avoid cutting the plants that are out of the row, either the 
soil will not be worked up to the row as it should be, or has 
to be gone over with the hand hoe, which consumes con- 
siderable time where much ground is under cultivation. 

The Hand Hoe. This tool is so well known and univer- 
sally used as to need no directions as to its use. It should 
be kept sharp and bright, however, as it will then not only 
be much easier to use but will also do much better work. 
When sharpening a hoe, grind or file on the front instead 
of the back. It will then slip into the soil much easier. 

The Steel Rake. There is no tool of more real value in 
the garden when kept well in use than the steel rake. The 
benefit is three-fold. Pulverizing the soil for an inch or 
two in depth prevents the escape of moisture from below, 
increases the growth of plants and destroys the weeds before 
they can make an appearance. The mistake of supposing 
that stirring the soil is not necessary unless there is a vis- 
able sign of growth of weeds to be destroyed should be 
abandoned. The surface should not only be kept clean, but 
frequently broken up and mellow. The pulverization of the 
soil should be kept near the surface not only to insure safet)r 
to the roots of the plants, but because the moisture in the 
soil is retained better than by deeper mellowing. The rake 
also enables the laborer to work much faster than with the 
hoe, and if used as often as it should be will pass over the 
ground with remarkable- ease. (When through using the 
rake or hoe hang them up, for they are dangerous things to 
step on). The space between the rows of cabbage, beans, 
peas, celery, etc., ma}' thus be kept clean with little labor. 

Garden Trowels, Spades, etc. , are also very useful in the 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT Id 

garden and must have care, and an occasional call on the 
grindstone. 

Laying Out the Garden. 

As before stated, a parallelogram is the best shape for a 
kitchen garden, as it renders more easy the preparation of 
the soil, and also the cultivation of the crops. On the out- 
side next the boundaries a border of about ten feet should 
be left for the growing of the smaller vegetables, which 
should be sown in beds; those on the sunny side for the 
early ones and those 011 the northern^ side that require 
shade. The rows (for the seeds in these beds should never 
be sown broadcast), should run with the slope of the land 
wherever possible and should be the long way of the plot. 

In winter while there is plenty of time before spring work 
comes on, the year's work should be planned; what varie- 
ties to plant, the quantities of each required, in what part 
of the garden to plant each variety so as to avoid the cross- 
ing of the different species, etc. , and thereby spoiling each 
other. Then, too, if the soil is of different quality in differ- 
ent parts of the garden, it should be planned so that the 
heavy and light soils shall be occupied by such crops as 
best succeed on the respective soils. Ease of cultivation 
and the rotation of crops should also be brought into con- 
sideration. The smaller varieties which require hoeing 
should be together; also those that mature at the same time, 
and those that require horse culture, making it much easier 
to prepare the soil for the succeeding or second crop. When 
la} r ing out a new garden, when it comes to the second season, 
rotation should be especially considered, as no two crops of 
the same varieties should be raised on the same ground two 
succeeding seasons as each consumes certain properties of 
plant food from the soil, so this change must be made so 
that the soil may be kept in a good state of cultivation. 

Reference must also be made to the kind of food each 
plant requires, as for instance, potatoes and strawberries 
should not succeed each other, as each requires considerable 
potash for their development; therefore does it not stand to 
reason that where the soil has produced a crop of one it 
would of necessity develop but a small crop of the other if 
planted in close succession, if the deficiency has not been 
supplied? Neither should cabbage follow oats in direct suc- 
cession, as the latter seems to poison the soil for the growth 
of the former. 

It is much cheaper to work the garden with the plow 
than with the spade, so where sufficient land is to be had a 
large garden is much better, and can be cared for propor- 



14 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

tiouately much cheaper, than a small one, and your supply of 
potatoes, sugar corn, squashes, melons, as well as smaller 
vegetables can be had in profusion. In planting, sow a 
variety of seeds so that the different tastes may be supplied; 
not only your own, but other people's as well. 

No fruit trees of any description should be allowed to 
grow in the kitchen garden, as they are a source of contin- 
ual annoyance, while in time their spreading roots and tops 
render them a nuisance. They not only injure the vege- 
tables, but they themselves are injured by plow and spade. 
Fruit trees should be planted separately where they may 
receive proper attention and not be an impediment to the 
care of the garden. 

It is of great importance to rapid work and good garden- 
ing that all these points should be arranged in the mind, or 
on paper, before work begins in the spring. The plan, if 
kept, would be quite beneficial to the operator the following 
season as it indicates where each variety was grown the 
season before. 

Compost. 

Every gardener should have a generous suppty of this, as 
it is greatly superior to coarse manure for garden use, 
especially in making hills for melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, 
sweet potatoes, in celery trenches, etc. It should be stacked 
in the autumn and thoroughly decomposed. 

It is composed of hen manure, hog manure, barnyard 
scrapings, ashes, leaves, bean and pea vines, or green weeds; 
in fact anything that will decay and make fertilizer, of 
which 3 r ou really cannot have too much. If made in the 
fall, as recommended, so much the better, as it will then 
become thoroughly decayed before needed; but it must not 
be exposed to the weather, as this will cause it to leach out 
and much of its value to be lost. To prevent this it maybe 
covered with old boards, or may be in some out building. 
Fork over occasionally to prevent burning and promote de- 
cay, always keeping the heaps flat on top, and moist by giving 
it a soaking whenever possible with washing suds, liquid 
manure, etc. 

To make a good compost the heap should be one-half soil 
or ashes. Night soil may also be made into a valuable fer- 
tilizer by putting it into the compost heap or by mixing 
with soil or coal ashes. You really cannot make too much 
manure on the farm. 

Manure. 

It is a good thing to make manure and a better thing to 
save it. Manure is the food of plants, and you cannot ex- 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 15 

pect good returns from your garden or fields unless the 
crops are supplied with nourishment. Therefore a good 
supply should either be made or otherwise procured, as the 
garden should have a heavy dressing at least two years out 
of three. 

The supply may be largely increased by pulling the cab- 
bage stumps, pea vines, or other refuse, as fast as the crops 
are gathered , and throwing on the manure heap. This should 
be near the house so that the ashes and slops may be thrown 
upon it to increase the amount and promote decay. Where 
tall weeds, corn stalks, etc. , are thrown upon the heap it 
should be forked over whenever possible, as this will pre- 
vent burning and loss, and will greatly facilitate rotting 
and handling when needed; besides, they will not interfere 
with the cultivation of small plants as they would other- 
wise do. 

Barnyard manure well cared for contains all the plant 
food elements required by plants. It not only brings per- 
manent fertility to the soil with the potash, nitrogen and 
phosphoric acid which it contains, but it renders the stored 
up materials more available, improves the condition of the 
soil, makes it warmer, and enables it to retain the moisture. 
Poultry droppings are very valuable. 

It may be composted with muck, leaves (these are also 
very valuable) , or other absorbents kept dry and stored in 
barrels and used in the hill. Never mix with ashes or the 
ammonia which it contains will be lost. Do not allow it to 
heat. It may be dissolved in water and used in watering 
plants, when its value will be quickly seen. 

Garden soil sometimes becomes surfeited with manure. 
In this case use phosphate, lime, or sow part at least to 
clover or rye, which when plowed under will supply plant 
food in another form. When plowed, broadcast lime on 
the surface, giving it a good dressing. Lime and phosphate 
should not be used the same season as the lime will destroy 
the phosphate, thereby incurring loss. 

In applying manure to land, care should be taken to spread 
it evenly, breaking the lumps to pieces. However, this 
should not be done long before plowing, especially if the 
weather be hot, dry or windy, for if it is, the manure will 
dry, its properties evaporate, and loss accrue. The custom 
practiced by some of piling the manure in small heaps all 
over the ground is a bad one, as the heavy spring rains 
wash the valuable qualities into the ground under the heap, 
while the soil between the heaps does not receive the least 
benefit therefrom; then, too, the soil under the heaps will 
be wet and soggy until late in the season. By all means 



16 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

spread it as fast as drawn from the pile. Another way and 
one which I prefer, is to plow the land and spread the ma- 
nure, and then harrow it in. In this case the manure must 
be very fine. Where it is coarse the former is the best way. 
The most valuable elements of manure cannot be meas- 
ured by the cord or ton, as they are the liquid and gaseous 
elements, which are the most difficult to retain. They are 
the first to escape, and escape unnoticed through such an 
easy outlet. 

Fertilizers. 

There is no doubt that a great deal of these are wasted 
by man} 7 who use them; wasted, not because the soil does 
not need them, but for want of proper knowledge of how to 
apply them and the special fertilizer required for the par- 
ticular soils, plants, etc. Different soils do not require the 
same kind of dressing, and expensive experiments may be 
made in different localities, while so confused will be the 
result that they will prove of little or no value. 

First, we must learn what the soil needs before we know 
what to appl3 7 ; second, we must know what each plant 
requires before we can fertilize intelligently. Hit or 
miss experiments prove nothing and are useless. It 
is important to go at anything intelligently or failure may 
result, and none are more likely to fail than the tiller of the 
soil. Before using chemical manure he must learn that one 
soil is rich in potash, another in nitrogen, another in phos- 
phoric acid, and another in lime; to apply any of these to 
soils where there is already an abundanee, will onty be a 
loss to the owner. 

We must begin our studies of fertilizers and soil require- 
ments at the bottom, and then our progress will be rapid, 
because our work will be intelligently done. In using com- 
mercial fertilizers it is best to sow them between the rows 
and then work them around the plants during the season 
with the cultivator or hoe. 

Procuring Supplies — Seeds, Plants, Etc. 

During the winter evenings it is a good idea to look over 
your stock of seeds and make out a list of your requirements 
for the coming season. Take your wife into the scheme 
with you, and procure seeds to secure a variety to cover the 
entire season, flower as well as vegetable; but do not en- 
tertain the idea that you need the contents of a seed and 
plant establishment, for this is a mistake. A few varieties 
are best. 

Having the season's campaign all settled, the next thing 
is to know what is to be grown, the varieties best adapted 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 17 

to the locality and the soil of your garden, and where to 
obtain them of the best quality. If you have saved them 
yourself you are comparatively safe, but if the}' were pur- 
chased they should not be used until thoroughly tested un- 
less you know they came from a trustworthy source. It 
does not pa}' to try to economize in the purchase of seeds, 
nor does it pay to use poor seeds on any part of the farm, 
as it is a waste of time, labor, ground, manure and patience, 
as the inferior vegetables will scarcely cover expenses, for 
nowhere on the farm is "blooded stock" of more impor- 
tance than in the seeds sown. 

In making out your order stick to the varieties known to 
be good and that suit your soil and local climate, especially 
if grown for private use, for the greatest pleasure is derived 
from testing the fruits of your own raising with the appe- 
tite engendered through their cultivation. In some cases I 
think it best to purchase your supply of seed and plants 
from a reliable dealer who has his reputation at stake and 
who will fill your order with nothing but the best. 

Then, it is not advisable to try all the novelties you see 
offered in gaud}' colors and glowing terms, for general use, 
but rather buy those that you know to be good and suited 
to your requirements. Many of the novelties are not suited 
to all climates and while they may do well in one locality 
they may from one reason or another be worthless in an- 
other. This rule also applies to older varieties. For this 
reason we will not name any particular varieties, but will 
leave this to the choice of the gardener. Then, too, many 
novelties are new only in name; this is a fraud practiced by 
some seedsmen. In selecting, choose those varieties that 
do well for your neighbors, while if you desire, include a 
few novelties for trial, but do not depend on them for a 
main crop until you have given them a fair trial, or disap- 
pointment may follow. It is a very interesting matter to 
test a few of them, watching their growth, testing their 
quality, etc., and there is occasionally some money to be 
made through their culture, but don't go in too deep. 

Raising Plants. 

With a garden of an acre or so it will be found econom- 
ical to raise your own supply of plants. For this you will 
need hot beds, cold frames and beds of rich fine soil, if it is 
properly done. It is best to locate these in a sunny nook 
wliere they will be sheltered from the cold winds and also 
near the cistern and manure pile. These beds must be well 
drained as dampness is very injurious to young seedlings, 



18 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

and will also take up a considerable amount of heat, which 
should go to the forwarding of the plants. 

It is advisable to sift the soil through a coarse sieve as it 
then makes a fine seed bed for the young plants. As soon 
as the temperature has fallen to 75 , or as soon as the 
soil is only just warm to palm of the hand, the soil should 
be sprinkled and when it has dried off a little it should be 
raked thoroughly and the seeds sown. 

I prefer sowing in drills as much stockier plants will thus 
be secured. The drills should be about four inches apart; 
this will allow light and air to reach the roots and will per- 
mit of an occasional cultivation. Seeds will not grow if 
placed too deeply in the soil. Some seeds like cabbage, 
brusselsprouts, etc., should be about one-half an inch deep, 
while smaller seeds like celery should be simply pressed 
into the soil. A good rule is to cover the seeds about five 
or six times the diameter of the seed. A light covering 
firmly pressed down is all that is required. 

About ten weeks before the last frost is expected is about 
the time to sow seeds of tender plants, while eight weeks 
will answer for the hardier varieties. The plants will then 
be ready for the warm days and showers of spring. The 
plants in the beds should be aired on every warm clay that 
they may not become "drawn" and spindling. They should 
not be allowed to crowd each other in the beds, but should 
be thinned freety or they will be severely damaged. 

Another point to be remembered and that is, to not keep 
the soil too damp or the plants will damp off. Water only 
when the soil is dry on top. If you are troubled with the 
little white worms in the soil of your plant beds try soot 
water, tobacco tea, lime water, or water with hard water. 
The last is the best remedy I am acquainted with. As 
planting time approaches the beds should be left open, 
whenever possible, that they may become sufficiently hard- 
ened so as not to miss the covering when removed to the 
open air. 

Where a few extra early plants are wanted they can be 
removed to the earliest beds when the cabbage or other 
hardy plants have been set out, and the sash put on again. 
While the hardy plants may be set out as soon as danger of 
frost is past, the tender plants such as tomato, egg and 
pepper plants should not be set out until the thermom- 
eter stands at sixty degrees all night, or when the swallows 
begin housekeeping. Good thrifty plants well hardened 
before transplanting are necessary for a good crop. 

Seeds for reasonably early plants may be sown in cold 
frames in the same manner as in the hot bed. These will 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 19 

not have the advantage of the heat caused by the fermenting 
manure, depending solely on the heat of the sun and the 
protection afforded by the sash for their development. They 
should be sown about two weeks later than when the hot 
bed is used, and the plants will be ready for transplanting 
two weeks later than those raised in heat. As soon as 
warm enough to dig and bring them into a fine condition 
seed beds should be made in a warm, sunny nook in the 
garden, for the sowing of late cabbage, cauliflower, celery, 
etc. Where no beds are at hand or where only a few plants 
are required, the}'' can be grown quite satisfactorily in boxes 
set in a sunny window in a warm room. 

For this purpose some boxes (tobacco boxes are nice for 
this) should be procured, and filled with some fine rich soil; 
after the seeds are sown keep them warm and moist, not 
wet. Do not allow the plants to become crowded. Trans- 
planting the young seedlings at least once, is quite essential 
to their proper development. This should be done before 
they become crowded in the seed bed. They should be set 
far enough apart to allow them to attain some growth and 
make them stocky. Care should be taken not to bruise the 
plants or break the roots. To prevent this, handle care- 
fully. Moistening the soil before removing the plants will 
be of assistance to you in preventing this. In removing 
plants to the open ground this is quite essential. 

Before going into other details it will be well to say a few 
words about 

Watering and Transplanting. 

The most suitable time for transplanting is in the after- 
noon or evening or on a rain}- day. But if done on a hot, 
dry day, water thoroughly and shade for two or three days. 
New roots will have now formed and all danger from trans- 
planting is past. Nature never intended for a plant to be 
transplanted and care must be exercised in so doing. 

Don't crowd the roots into a hole not half large enough 
to receive them, but make the hole large and deep enough 
to hold the roots with the soil adhering to them. Make 
the soil fine and mellow, and the hills large. With one 
hand place the plant in position in the hole, while with the 
other pour water into the hole. If properly done the mel- 
low soil will fill in about the roots and hold the plant in 
position, so that, if freshly taken from the bed it will scarcely 
ever wilt, even if transplanted in hot sunshine. When the 
water has settled away, fill around the plant with mellow 
soil. If treated in this way the soil will not bake around 
the plant as it would otherwise do. Never pour water on 



20 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

or around newly set plants, for it is almost sure to cause 
the soil to bake or the sun to scald and injure them. As 
soon as they have become established, loosen the soil around 
their stems, always keeping the soil loose, clean and mellow. 
If a little hen manure is worked into the soil around the 
plants, it will greatly increase the growth as well as the 
productiveness of the plants. 

In regard to watering the garden, I would say that more 
harm than good results come from beginning to water a 
plant and then not keeping it up till the necessity ceases. 
As soon as the soil dries out after watering it should be 
stirred with a hoe. Water thoroughly or do not water at all. 
Then, too, it is not natural for a plant to receive water 
while the sun is shining. Therefore do not sprinkle the 
foliage or damages will result. Water on cloudy days or 
in the evening. Instead of watering (and this takes con- 
siderable time and labor), I prefer to keep the soil loose and 
mellow around the roots. For this purpose there is nothing 
better than the steel rake before mentioned. This not only 
fills the place of watering, through evaporation of the 
moisture from below, but serves to keep the soil free from 
weeds and in good condition for the succeeding crop, where 
two crops are grown on same ground in one season; and it 
is much easier done. 

Saving Seed. 

When saving seed of vegetables as in any other crop the 
very best should be selected. The best heads of lettuce, 
the best beets, cabbage, ears of corn; in fact the best of 
everything. 

Care must also be exercised to keep each variety pure, as 
crossing with other varieties is ofttimes detrimental to 
quality. All seed must be well cleansed, cured, labeled, 
dated, and put away where there is no danger from freezing, 
mice, dampness or very warm heat. 

By continual selection in one direction a strain is estab- 
lished that is perhaps better suited to your locality than 
any you can buy, while some varieties such as peas, beans, 
potatoes, etc. , are best when procured from the north. 
Where the runts of crops are saved for seed year after year, 
the quality of the seeds will deteriorate and the crop will not 
pay expenses and "gardening don't pay^.'^ From this rea- 
son we so often hear the complaint, "my lettuce isn't fit to 
eat; my cabbage don't head; my sweetcoru has lost its 
flavor. ' ' All these and other complaints too numerous to 
mention are heard from the discouraged and disappointed 
gardener. In selecting seeds always keep a point in view. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 

Hot Beds. 



21 



These are very valuable appliances to the gardener's out- 
fit whether he gardens for market or for his own private 
use. All plants that require starting in heat ma} r be sown 
in the hot bed. An ordinary sash is three by six feet. 
Allowing a slant of 6 inches from back to front the width 
of the frame is easily calculated. A good bed (and no other 
should be made), must be at least 3 feet 6 inches 
deep and well drained. For material 2 inch stuff for corner 
posts and good inch boards for sides. 

Cedar or cypress boards are best as they last longer. 
Make the rear posts 3 feet 6 inches long and the 
front ones 36 inches. After nailing all together let the 




• GROUND. 



-^:zMa/vOrei^- 



End view of Hot Bed showing interior. 

frame down 2 feet 6 inches into the earth, facing the south 
so as to catch the rays of the sun. Where several sashes 
are to be used the posts should be set firmly in the ground. 
Where seeds of tender plants and hardy ones are to be sown 
in the same frame, or a portion of it used as a cold frame, 
a partition must be placed across the frame so as to give 
the separate parts proper treatment. Where the sashes 
meet, 2x3 inch strips should be nailed across the bed for the 
sash to rest on and an inch strip placed down the center of 
this scantling to keep the sash in place when moved back 
and forth. 

If a warm day or two comes in January or February the 
pit may be dug out 2 feet 6 in. deep, the frame put in place, 



22 



THE FARMER'S GARDEN 



manure banked against it, and leaves or litter put in to 
keep out the frost. Care must be exercised in the con- 
struction of the bed as your future success depends on this. 
The sash should fit the frame closely and the glass should 
have one-quarter inch lap — shingle fashion. In preparing 
the manure use horse manure (hen manure will do but is 
not so reliable), not more than six weeks old, containing 
considerable straw or leaves. 

This should be forked over and if dry, watered and al- 
lowed to stand a few days to heat, then it should be forked 
over again, when it will be ready for use in a few da} r s. 
The reason for forking: it over is to obtain a uniform heat 




This style te recommended for a wet location. 

without which your bed would prove a failure. In placing 
the manure in the bed be sure to spread it evenly and tread 
it down firmly. This is of great importance and unless 
done one portion of the bed will heat more quickly than the 
other, causing the soil to settle unevenly. The soil used 
for the bed should be dry and a rich sandy loam. After 
the bed is complete put on the sash and bank up with 
manure. 

Do not sow 3 7 our seed until the temperature is about 75 ° 
or 8o°, at which point it should be kept. One point of im- 
portance is, that you use dry soil in makhig your hot bed, 
and that the first heat shall pass off before sowing the seed, 
otherwise your seed and labor will be lost and } r our hot 
bed prove a failure. Be very careful about the temperature, 
keeping it even and moist as possible and not too high — 
never over 85 °. It is advisable to keep a thermometer in 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 23 

the bed at all times when in use. The hot bed should not 
be idle but should be occupied throughout the entire spring 
and early summer. A spent hot bed affords an admirable 
place for storing celery in the winter. A good hot bed 
sash and frame well painted and cared for will last for years. 
Soil for hot beds may be shoveled into the old bed and 
covered with leaves and the shutters or old boards laid over 
all. This keeps hard frosts out and permits the soil to be 
worked early in the spring. 

The Cold Frame. 

The cold frame is a valuable appliance in the spring and 
is simply a hot bed minus the heating material. The frame 
may be of any size from one to four sash. Each sash should 
be 3x6 feet, the same as for hot beds previously mentioned. 
The frame should be 16 inches high in front and 2 feet 
high in rear, and should be constructed of inch and a half 
plank. Cedar or cypress is best for this purpose on account 
of their durability. 

When two or more sash are used, braces four inches wide 
must be placed across the frame from back to front to hold 
the sash in position and strengthen the frame. On these 
braces a strip must be nailed to separate the sash and cause 
them to run true. On each side or end of the frame a strip 
projecting above the ends the thickness of the sash must 
be nailed to keep the sash in place. 

When completed set upon the ground, in a sheltered 
place, and bank up with manure to keep out the frost as 
much as possible. This should be done in March, and as 
soon as the weather will permit, or as soon as there is no 
danger of freezing in the frame, the plants ma}- be trans- 
planted to it from the hot bed. In this way the}- become 
stocky and well rooted, and when ready to be set in the 
open garden can be moved without scarcely feeling the 
change. This is the place, too, to forward tomato, pepper 
and egg plants. Here also many seeds may be sown and 
bulbs started before set in the ground. Cauliflower, celery 
and cabbage plants may be brought along to advantage in 
the cold frame. Here is also a good place to store celery 
in the winter, but must be protected with litter to exclude 
frost. 

The cold frame, like the hot bed, must be thoroughiy 
drained. Seeds should be sown in the hot bed about ten 
weeks before the last frost is expected, or in this latitude 
early in March. By the first of April the plants will be 
large enough to be pricked out into the cold frame, and 
then shaded when the sun is warm, and watered. If the 



24 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

plants are set in shallow boxes when moved to the frame 
the}^ will be easier to care for. They should be kept as 
warm as possible while in the frames, but ' must be well 
aired in the middle of warm, sunny days. A few melons, 
cucumbers, squashes, lima beans, etc. , may be planted in 
the cold frame in sods or otherwise, and when the weather 
has become settled they may be moved to the open ground. 
They may thus be brought into bearing several daj^s be- 
fore the regular crop is ready. 

Those who have a cold frame but no hot bed, can procure 
plants from a hot bed and care for them in the cold frame 
and thus have their supply -when actually needed. 




What to Grow and How to Grow It. 

We will now endeavor to tell what to grow and how it is 
to be grown, to the best advantage, so far as our knowledge 
is concerned. Of course a great deal depends on the skill 
and experience of the gardener, and on local conditions and 
circumstances which no one can foresee and over which we 
have no control. 

We have also placed the cultural directions alphabeti- 
cally, so as to give this treatise a more S} T stematical appear- 
ance, and to render more easy the finding of any particular 
subject which you may have in mind. In consideration of 
this we will first give the instruction on the culture of the 

Artichoke (Synara Scolymus). — This is the French va- 
riety, the flower buds of which are so highly esteemed as an 
article of food and is entirely different from those cultivated 
for its roots or tubers. Artichokes require good deep soil 
somewhat moist, and if of a sandy nature so much more in 
their favor. Seed may be sown in the hot bed or cold frame 
and removed into pots, so as to give plenty of room and air 
until danger from frost is past, and then transplanted into 
very rich soil two feet apart each way. Or the plants may 
be raised in beds outside, but in that case the}' will not be 
likely to bear the first season. In raising them in this way 
the seed should be sown in rows one foot apart early in 
spring. When the seedlings have attained sufficient growth 
they should be transplanted to their permanent home. The 
edible portion is the flower heads while in an undeveloped 
state, which will be produced from September until killed 
by frost. 

Before planting the soil should be made very rich with 
well decayed manure. After planting water freely and 
keep the weeds in check. Late in the fall, before severe 
weather, cut off the tops and cover the crowns with leaves 
or litter to protect from frost. The second year the heads 
will commence to form about July. Where blanched arti- 
chokes are desired, they can be obtained by cutting back 



26 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

the stems in July close to the surface, when the young and 
fast growing shoots which grow up after cutting may be 
blanched similar to celery. 

The undeveloped buds are cooked like asparagus. On 
account of its hardiness, easy cultivation and perennial 
nature it should be found in every garden. 

Plant the tubers of the Jerusalem variety like potatoes, 
and sufficient is usually left in the soil to seed the ground 
for the next season. As the}' do not yield satisfactory 
after three or more years, it is best to make a new bed every 
four years at most. To destroy the plants, plow the ground 
when the}' are about a foot in height; at this time the old 
tubers have rotted and the new crop not yet formed. 

We think the Artichoke is far too little grown, which is 
the case with many other vegetables. The tuberous variety 
is a great hog food when grown on a large scale, as they 
are a cheap, healthy and nutritious diet on which hogs 
thrive most splendidly. 

Asparagus {Asparagus Officinalis). — This delicious vege- 
table like many others is too little grown and but few peo- 
ple, comparatively speaking, know how delicious it really 
is, while it is also one of the first to appear. 

The seed should be sown in drills one foot apart and one 
inch in depth. Before sowing pour boiling water on the 
seed and pour off immediately. This assists in sprouting 
the seed without injuring it, if done quickly. Care must be 
taken to keep down all weeds the first season as soon as 
they appear or they will choke out the young seedlings. 
The deeper the soil and the more manure used, the greater 
will be the crop. 

The soil best suited to the growth of Asparagus is a rich 
loam inclining to be light, and the manure must be well 
rotted. The most economical width for an asparagus bed 
is five feet, which will take three rows, one down the center 
and one down each side about a foot from the edge. Trans- 
plant to their permanent home when growth begins in the 
spring. This operation cannot be done too carefully. Set 
the plants not less than fifteen inches apart in the rows; lay 
the roots out regularly and neatly and about four inches in 
depth. The permanent beds should be prepared by stirring 
the soil deeply and should be thoroughly enriched. Where 
the subsoil is not naturally loose and mellow it should be 
made so by plowing or otherwise. 

After the plants are well rooted give frequent and thorough 
cultivation, drawing more soil up to the plants each time. 
The after cultivation consists simply in keeping the ground 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 27 

clean, and in dressing with manure, salt and ashes in spring. 
Early the following spring spade in a heavy coat of manure 
and a quart of salt to the square rod, and cultivate until the 
plants begin to die. The third season the bed may be cut 
over two or three times, cutting all the shoots no matter 
how small, ar 
ing as before. 

The next season, as well as all following ones, the bed 
should give a full crop and should be given an annual dress- 
ing as before, and should be well, but not deeply, cultivated 
until the plants occupy the whole space. - As soon as the 
tops ripen the}' should be cut and burned. Asparagus may 
also be set in the autumn if the bed is well drained so as to 
prevent water standing on it. It is a good plan to protect 
the beds with strawy manure or litter, which may be burned 
off in early spring before plants appear. Or if this cover- 
ing is worked into the soil, you will soon have a supply of 
this most delicious vegetable. The young shoots may be 
cut for use the second season, but not very freely until the 
third, as before stated. 

After the bed has become thoroughly established very 
little attention is required except keeping the soil clean and 
well dressed. For this reason it pays to make a good bed. 
Asparagus is a marine plant and requires more or less salt. 
It is also an old favorite, and was grown to perfection 200 
years before the Christian era. If prompt returns are 
wanted it is best to purchase good two-year-old plants; for 
in sowing the seed the "grass" will not be ready for use 
until at least a year later. 

In selecting a location regards should be had to the pre- 
paration of the remainder of the garden. All permanent 
beds and plantations should be together on one side of the 
plot. So far as possible the soil should be plowed deepfy 
and heavily manured, for this is one of those plants that it 
is difficult to make the soil too rich for. Give the plants 
plent}^ of sun. Shading them too much is a mistake 
too often made. The distance given in setting the plants 
is the limit; a trifle farther apart is still better. It is not 
necessary to set the plants very deeply — four inches is suf- 
ficient, as the roots spread out and grow. See that the soil 
is pressed firmly around the plants when set out. 

Asparagus will thrive in almost au}^ soil, but a light, rich 
loam is best and will produce a crop earlier than a clay soil. 
The best place for early potatoes is the best for asparagus. 
The deeper and richer the soil the better, but the idea that 
soil must be deeply trenched, and an extraordinary amount 
of manure applied is now out of date. A southern slope 



28 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

near the farm building is a splendid place for asparagus. 
Do not plant on gravelly soil. 

The commercial fertilizer best suited to this crop is iooo 
pounds of raw bone, and 200 pounds of muriate of potash 
per acre. In case it rains soon after planting, rake the sur- 
face carefully to destroy the weeds and to keep the soil 
mellow. In doing this, care should be exercised to avoid 
injuring the tender shoots which may have started. Culti- 
vate quite frequently. Do this as early as possible, for the 
earlier the soil is stirred and the air let in, the earlier the 
"grass" will be ready for use. The natural tendency of 
the crowns is to grow near the surface; therefore care must 
taken to cultivate very shallow near the rows. 

After cutting the stalks the bed should be forced to do 
its best. This is done by covering the bed with fine manure 
or compost, and as soon as cutting ceases and when the 
stalks have grown again, work the manure into the soil. 
This gives the plants new vigor and strength to produce a 
good crop the coming season. A little salt sown on the bed 
in the spring will assist in keeping down the weeds, stimu- 
late the "grass," dissolve the plant food in the manure and 
attract moisture. In cutting it is best to cut even with, 
or a little below, the surface, using a pointed knife, which 
is less liable to injure the unseen sprouts. Every shoot 
however small should be cut, for the good of the next sea- 
son's crop. If the asparagus beetle puts in an appearance, 
prompt actions on your part are necessary. If a few broods 
of young chicks or turkeys are allowed to inspect the patch 
a great many of the pests will be destroyed. If the old tops 
are cut and burned in the autumn millions of eggs will be 
destroyed. 

Beans ( Faba ). — Every garden should have a good 
supply of these general favorites in it, as there is scarcely a 
person who does not enjoy them, either green or dry, while 
the}* have a history long and curious. Pliny says of them, 
"The pod is to be eaten with the seed." From this we 
conclude he was speaking of what we know as "string 
beans." We also find them recorded in 2d Samuel XVII, 
28, and also in Ezekiel IV, 9. Beans are divided into two 
classes — dwarf and pole, and these subdivided into green 
podded and wax podded. 

Beans {Faba I T ulgaris). No crop responds to good treat- 
ment more readily than this. F. Vulgaris is the common 
garden variety. A succession of plantings ma}* be made 
from May throughout the summer in rows 18 to 36 inches 
apart; in hills two inches deep, one foot apart, and three 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 29 

seeds to a hill. A deeply tilled light, rich soil is best suited 
to their growth. Being tender and very susceptible to cold 
they must not be planted too early. That soil which was 
manured for a previous crop is best suited to their growth. 
For an extra early supply a few may be sown in the cold 
frame, and when the weather is settled they may be trans- 
planted to the garden when about three inches high. 

The snap varieties yield very abundantly and a drill of 
75 to ioo feet in length will produce sufficient to meet the 
requirements of an average family, for if they are picked 
closely, as they should be, the plants will continue to bear 
for a considerable length of time. The pole variety will 
commence to bear about the time the dwarfs cease and are 
sometimes preferred from the fact that they are more pro- 
ductive, and are more easily harvested. 

In selecting varieties care should be taken to select only 
those that are stringless, as they are much easier to prepare 
for use and are much more tender when cooked. Cultivate 
thoroughly and draw the soil up to their stems twice during 
growth. Never cultivate when wet, nor when in bloom, as 
this will greatly injure them. 

Poi^E Beans (Phaseolus multiflorus} . No garden, how- 
ever small, is complete unless it contains a generous supply 
of these real luxuries. Yet the work of poling them and 
keeping them trained is frequently such a perplexing one 
that they are often entirely discarded. 

The> 7 may be planted in hills 36 inches apart, but must 
not be put in the ground until the middle of May, or when 
the swallows begin to nest, or when the trees are in full 
leaf. The poles should not be more than 6 feet high when 
set, or it will be inconvenient to gather the crop when ready 
for use; and, too, the vines will not begin to bear until they 
have reached the tops of the poles. If an} 7 fail to climb the 
poles readily the} 7 should be twined around the poles, in the 
same direction as the others, or they will not take to the 
poles readily, if at all. Pinching out the tips of the vines 
tends to produce an earlier supply, but in my opinion di- 
minishes the crop. It does not take long to secure a good 
supply of poles, and when once secured it is not much 
trouble to preserve them for a number of years. If kept 
out of doors they should be stacked, tops downward. To 
prevent the ends from rotting off they should be charred 
slightly, or dipped in coal tar, which will preserve them 
for years. 

The poles should be set by the aid of the garden line, and 
the crooked ones turned into the row; this will give them a 
neater appearance. Then put some compost around each 



30 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

one, working it into the soil. Three or four beans may be 
planted around each pole, when the vines will cover them 
in a short time and will present a beautiful sight, heavily 
laden with their long handsome pods. 

Some varieties do well when planted in the hills of corn. 
In this case the variety should be of a loosely twining na- 
ture. The pods should be picked while young and tender 
when required for string beans, and by taking care to gather 
the older pods, the blooming and bearing will continue for 
a lengthened period. These are even more susceptible to 
cold and to hot winds than are the dwarf varieties; and 
where the hills are to be the soil should be raised as for 
melons. It is said that by setting the poles at an angle of 
35 , the tops to the north, the vines will bear earlier, the 
pods be straighter, and more easily gathered. As the ma- 
tured beans or pods are all that is used, the season in the 
north is too short for a succession; then, too, this is un- 
necessary for when the directions are observed a few poles 
will bear throughout the season. Of the "snaps," the 
"wax" varieties are the best, being the most tender, while 
the}^ are of the most superb quality. 

The Kidney or French Bean (Phaseolus nanus) is an- 
other division of the common garden bean, which is very 
tender and must have warm dry soil to succeed. They are 
cultivated similar to the common varieties. 

Limas. The principal point in the culture of these real 
delicacies is to get them started properly. This class of 
beans is really more liable to decay in the ground than the 
common varieties unless the soil is warm and dry. There- 
fore it is best to plant in a hill, slightly raised above the 
level with a shovelful of light manure or compost in the 
hills, which should be three feet apart. 

These also require poles to ramble over, similar to the 
pole beans. The Bush Limas are a great acquisition where 
poles are hard to procure, but having the poles I prefer the 
old Pole Lima, for various reasons. In planting Lima 
beans be very careful to place the eye of the bean downward 
as the first leaves (which is the bean itself) are quite large 
and heavy; it will assist them in coming up if planted in 
this manner. Cover very lightly with very fine light soil, 
sand or chaff, being very careful not to plant until the soil 
is warm and light. Corn planting time is a good time to 
plant Lima beans. 

When the frost kills the vines in the fall, gather the green 
beans and dry them for winter use. They then taste like 
fresh beans. Three plants to a pole is sufficient. Every 
garden should have a supply of this delectable bean. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 31 

Beet {Beta vulgaris). — This is another universal favorite. 
The beet is a half-hardy biennial and like all other root 
crops produces best results in a rich, sandy loam, which has 
been well manured for a previous crop, otherwise forked or 
illshaped roots may result. For an early supply the seed 
should be sown in the hot bed, and the outside leaves cut 
off when transplanted to the open ground. 

Where the proper soil is not at your disposal, the soil 
should be dug before winter and a dressing of manure ap- 
plied. By this method the soil becomes mellow and pul- 
verized before sowing time. Sow the seed early in April 
for summer, and in June or July for winter use. Sow in 
rows 15 to 18 inches apart. It is. best to sow in freshty 
prepared ground, which should be pressed over the seed. 

If sown earlier than above, many may run to seed or be- 
come coarse and stringy. A few waterings in dry weather 
will prove beneficial. As soon as the bulbs reach maturity, 
lift carefully so as not to wound them, pile in heap, cover 
with sand or earth so as to keep out the frost, and enjoy 
crisp and tender beets throughout the year. The blood 
beets retain their deep red color when cooked, and present 
a beautiful appearance when mixed with the yellow fleshed 
varieties. It will be found advisable to make two or three 
sowings, so as to be certain of a supply of tender bulbs. 
Be sure to press the soil firmly about the seed as this is one 
of the seeds which is slow in germinating. The young 
plants may be transplanted, but care must be used so as not 
to injure them, as this will cause them to form misshapen 
bulbs. 

The thinnings of beets when young and tender make an 
excellent dish when cooked for greens, and are quite pro- 
fitable where there is a market for them. 

The Swiss Chard is a variety of the common beet grown 
exclusively for its leaves instead of the bulbs, which are 
worthless. It is therefore called leaf beet, or spinach beet. 
After sowing in the spring, the plants are thinned like 
common beets, and supplied with water. In late summer, 
autumn and in more southern localities, in early winter, the 
plants are ready for use. 

Beets may be had for winter use by storing in barrels in 
cellar, and keeping covered with sand or soil to prevent 
wilting. Beets are on record as a highly prized vegetable 
over 2000 years ago, and received much notice from early 
writers on horticultural subjects. 

The large rough shells or seed pods contain several seeds 
making it impossible to sow the seeds thin enough but that 
thev will have to be thinned. 



32 THE PARMER'S GARDEN 

Borecole or Kale c Brassica oleracea acepliala). — This is 
another vegetable which is seldom seen in the average vege- 
table garden. Kale is, practically speaking, a cabbage that 
does not head, and must be thoroughly cooked. In all the 
cabbage family this is the most tender and delicate, and 
would be more generally grown than it is, if its many ex- 
cellent qualities were more generally known. 

Curly Greens or Scotch Kale can accommodate them- 
selves to almost any ordinary garden soil, and no vegetable 
is more wholesome, coming as it does just after frost has 
cut off the supply of vegetables, and being hardy may be 
had throughout the entire winter and spring, by giving pro- 
tection of straw, leaves, or evergreen boughs, in the north. 
Sow the seed in May, transplant in June or July, setting the 
plants in rows two feet apart and one foot between the 
plants, and give the same culture as recommended for Cab- 
bage. 

For a succession sow at intervals of two or three weeks. 
Seed of the more hardy dwarf varieties may also be sown in 
the fall and well protected, and should not be transplanted 
as are the tall varieties. The small heads may be cooked 
like spinach during winter. The quality is greatly improved 
by frost and while entirely hardy they should not be han- 
dled while frozen. If necessary to handle while in this 
condition they should be thawed as quickly as possible by 
immersing them in cold water. 

Broccoli {Brassica oleracea botrytis asparagoides ). — This 
is nearly related to the cauliflower, but is more hardy, of 
excellent flavor and greatly relished b}' all who grow them. 
Broccoli delights in a good stiff loam. 

To maintain a succession care must be given to the sow- 
ing at the proper time and to the selecting of the best var- 
ieties. The earliest sowings are made in March; the later- 
ones in April or May. The seed is sown in the hot bed or 
cold frame, the soil being of good depth. Sow thinly and 
cover lightly with soil. When the plants are three inches 
high transplant into rows four or five inches apart and the 
same distance between the plants. If the ground is ready 
for the setting out of the plants they may be set out in their 
small state direct from the seed beds, but it is better that 
they be transplanted once at least. 

The permanent plot should be stirred deeply before set- 
ting the plants. Some varieties require more space than 
others, but the medium is about thirty inches each way. 
After planting give a generous supply of water and also 
during dry weather an occasional application of liquid ma- 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 33 

nure. Keep the hoe busy during the autumn. On the ap- 
proach of winter they must be thoroughly protected by a 
covering of straw or litter, or those which are remaining in 
the garden will be lost, as the severe winter weather cuts 
them down unless protection of some kind is given them, 
and I am doubtful if even this will save them except in 
favored localities. 

The heads should be cut as soon as they attain medium 
size and cooked similar to the Cauliflower. It may be well 
to state here that Broccoli and Cauliflower do not thrive in 
many sections, owing to the fact that the summers are too 
hot and dry for them, except in favorable localities. The 
best we can do is to give them a cool, moist situation and 
risk the crop in unfavorable localities. 

Brussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea bullata minor). — This 
is a superior vegetable, superior to either spinach or kale. 
It may not be out of place to state here that this, like many 
other vegetables, is also too little grown. 

Sow moderately thick in hot bed in March and thin freely. 
Prick out into rows four inches apart, on a nicely prepared 
border, where they will make a stocky growth before they 
are set out. A plantation should be made from this bed 
earl}- in May on a good rich soil in rows two feet apart, set- 
ting the plants .18 inches apart in the rows. A May sowing 
should also be made for a late crop, and should be treated 
in a similar manner. 

L,ook out for the green louse. Hoe frequently, and keep 
down the weeds. In gathering the sprouts pull those off 
the stem first, leaving the top till last. 

They are cooked and served as are greens. Strip off the 
outer covering and cook them whole — Ah! what a delicacy, 
not surpassed by even the Cauliflower. The Sprouts re- 
semble Cabbage in miniature, are produced abundantly, 
and are about two inches in diameter. They become vzxy 
tender and of rich delicious flavor when touched by frost. 

These like all other members of the Brassica family are 
subject to the ravages of the flea-beetle, the cabbage worm 
and the green louse. They must be protected against these 
or they will be severely damaged. 

Cabbage {Brassica oleracea capitata). — By the introduction 
of Cabbages of remarkably quick growth it is now possible 
to obtain a supply of this standard vegetable throughout 
the year. As to the early historj^ of the Cabbage we will 
quote the following historical event: Diocletian amused 
himself bv working in his garden, and when Maximian 



34 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

sought to draw him from his retirement he wrote: "If you 
could see the cabbages I have planted with my own hand, 
you would never ask me to remount the throne." 305 A.D. 

The soil intended for this general favorite should be 
deeply dug and well dressed with manure, and to prevent 
"club root" do not plant cabbage two successive seasons on 
the same soil and do not use hog manure. A dressing of 
lime will sometimes pay^. In manuring soil for cabbage put 
the manure on until you are sure there is enough and then 
put on two or three times as much more, and then you will 
probably have enough. 

Two distinct crops are, or should be, grown in every 
garden. They are "early" and "late." Seed of the ear- 
liest sorts is sown from February to March and April, which 
will be ready for use about four months from time of sow- 
ing. Therefore we may now enjoy this vegetable almost 
as early as we formerly could from seed sown the Septem- 
ber previous, and do not have the plants to care for during 
the winter. 

In setting out the plants care should be exercised to set 
them down to the first leaves and thereby prevent the frost 
from splitting the stems and injuring them as it would 
otherwise do. Successional sowings may be made if cir- 
cumstances require. Sow seed in hot bed or cold frame at 
dates given above, transplanting the seedlings to about two 
inches apart, or they will become tall and spindling — drawn. 
Give plenty of light and air. The old way of raising late 
cabbage was to burn a brush heap and while the ashes were 
warm the seed was sown therein. This is an old and good 
way where practicable. In transplanting to the open choose 
a showery day, but if it is hot and dry, water generously 
by pouring water on the roots and cover this wet soil with 
some that is fine and dry. This will prevent the soil from 
crusting around the plants and thus injure them. Evening 
is a splendid time to do this work as the plants then receive 
the benefit of the water all night. Cover the roots with 
fine soil, packing it to them, or the plants may wash loose 
and rot off, and besides they will stand the drought much 
better when treated in this way. The distance varies with 
the variety", soil, etc. The small early varieties do well in 
rows 18 inches apart, and 15 inches between plants, while 
the late sorts should be at least two feet asunder each 
way. 

Cabbage must have good care to be a success, and must 
not be left to the care of the fairies and to the ravages of 
the worms, as often seems to be the case. About the third 
week in November the heads should be pulled on a dry da)" 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 35 

and left to drain, with the heads down; they should now 
be set on a dry spot, heads down as before, in rows by set- 
ting three heads together side by side, while if 3 r ou wish, 
two more rows may be set on top of these. 

Be careful to wrap the outside leaves around the heads 
to keep them clean and protect the heads. Soil is then 
thrown on them to the depth of five or six inches, packing 
it down firmly to prevent the rain and melting snow from 
soaking in. On the approach of winter cover the mound 
with salt hay or corn stalks, to keep out the frost. Rats 
like to work in vegetable mounds, where the}' will do con- 
siderable damage if not destroyed. 

Red Cabbages are used principally for pickling purposes. 
Cabbage as well as other vegetables retain their flavor much 
better when stored as above, than when packed in the cellar 
to rot and pollute the air. Or it may be preserved to a 
certainty by tying a string around the stalk and suspending 
them from the top of the cellar. In this case the cellar 
must be cool and dry. Or the heads may be cut off and 
packed in a barrel, taking care to fill all spaces with chaff 
and keep in a dry cellar, or bury the barrel up to the top. 
Cover the top with a lid and straw to exclude frost when 
buried outside. 

It must be understood that if the early sorts are wanted 
for winter use they must be sown later, as the cabbage, like 
every other vegetable, ripens in a certain number of days 
(this depends on the variety used) and is known by the 
falling off of the loose leaves, and when ripe soon begins to 
decay. The earliest matures in June. For second early 
the early varieties should be sown first of April and trans- 
planted to the open ground in May. This crop should come 
to maturity in Jul}' or August. 

The late varieties are sown in May and set out in July 
for winter use, or sown in February for early. When sown 
in May the crop matures in September, October and No- 
vember, according to the variety used. If the plants are 
infested with lice, each handful should be dipped into to- 
bacco dust or insect powder. Where it is desirable to 
economize space, lettuce or radish seed may be sown between 
the rows of early varieties, as it will be out of the way be- 
fore the cabbage needs the ground. Excepting where they 
are wanted for summer use for pickling, or in cooler sections, 
the Red varieties will be more likely to succeed if sown in 
June for heading during the cool fall months. 

Savoy Cabbage (Brassica oleracea bullata). Savoy Cab- 
bages, as you are doubtless aware, have a superior flavor, 
especially when touched by frost. The culture required by 



36 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Savoys is much the same as that required in raising cabbage 
for a late crop. 

You should make acquaintance with this real luxury of 
the cabbage family, for it is one of the most desirable of 
winter vegetables, as it answers two purposes; first, as a 
cabbage to be boiled, which is much sweeter than the com- 
mon variety; second, as a beautiful, sweet salad cabbage 
when cut and dressed as is Endive. 

This type of the Brassica family is not cultivated so gen- 
erally with us as it is in Europe where its rare good quality 
is more full}' appreciated. Unlike the common variety the 
leaves are much crumpled or blistered, owing to the fact 
that the tissue between the veins is much larger than is 
really necessary to fill the space and is bulged out and heav- 
ily wrinkled in accommodating itself to the limited space in 
which it has to grow, This tissue is the most delicious 
part of the plant and as the larger portion of the head is 
composed of this it makes the whole head of the most deli- 
cate flavor and of a marrowy nature when cooked. 

The\ T make the finest varieties for summer and fall, being 
especially desirable for boiling and for slaw. They also 
withstand the attacks of the worms better than the common 
varieties. 

Carrot {Daucus hortensis). — This vegetable seems to have 
come to us from a time that is immemorial, and is another 
vegetable which is too little grown, as it is one of the best 
of products of the garden when prepared in various ways. 

The carrot does best in a sandy loam which has been 
deeply dug and richly tilled. For an early crop sow as 
soon as the soil is in a proper condition. The seed should 
be sown in rows 12 inches apart, thinning so that the plants 
remaining are 4 to 6 inches apart. For late use sow at any 
time up to the middle of June. Carrot seed is one of those 
which is slow to germinate, and all precautions should be 
taken to prevent failure. The seed should be in all cases 
sown in rows, not more than one inch in depth, and the 
soil (which must be fine and mellow) well firmed about the 
seed; and to render the operation of sowing more easy it 
will be found of great advantage to mix the seed with sand. 

Cultivate thoroughly and keep the soil clean and mellow. 
Allow the crop .to remain in the soil as long as possible with- 
out danger of freezing to allow the roots to more thoroughly 
mature, as they will keep much better than when pulled 
before ripe. When pulled allow them to dry off before 
storing. Dig when the soil is dry, and store in sand or 
earth in the cellar or bury in the same manner as recom- 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 37 

mended for beets or other root crops, as they remain more 
fresh, crisp and tender when stored in this manner. A 
very slight frost injures Carrots more than other roots. 
Carrots also make a very nutritious and desirable food for 
stock, especialty for milch cows, as the milk is richer and 
the butter is sweeter and of a more beautiful color. 

While a sand}* loam made rich by manuring a previous 
crop is best suited to the carrot, any good soil thoroiighly 
and deeply tilled will produce good crops. Where the soil 
is shallow we would recommend the sowing of stump-rooted 
varieties. Where the Carrot is grown on a large scale, as 
in field culture, it will be found that a clover sod heavily 
dressed with thoroughly decayed manure will produce 
splendid crops. 

Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea botrytis caidiflora). — This 
delicious vegetable must be well and carefully grown. Any 
soil that will grow good cabbage. will grow this, the most 
delicious of all vegetables, though the richer the soil the 
better. Extra care will be well repaid. 

Sow T the seed in hot bed in February or March, trans- 
planting the plants two or three inches apart in boxes, or 
in the soil of another hot bed, giving an abundance of light 
and air on fine days until such a time as it is safe to plant 
in the open soil, which is from the last of March to the 
middle of April, according to the location of your vicinity; 
further south earlier, further north later. 

The plants will stand a light frost if hardened off prop- 
erly before setting them in the open ground. If properly 
hardened they are seldom injured by planting out too early. 
For second early and late crop sow at the dates given for 
cabbage. The soil intended for this crop should be very 
rich, turned over in the autumn, and a heavy dressing 
of manure applied and worked in, and the whole left to the 
action of the frost. It should be thoroughly broken up in 
the spring and got into a friable condition. 

It will greatry improve the appearance of the heads if the 
broad outside leaves are bent over them while the curds are 
forming, keeping them white and attractive. The heads 
should be cut while the dew is on them and before the buds 
uncurl, as this improves this, the most deliriously flavored 
member of the cabbage family. 

Never buy cheap Cauliflower seed. It's a snare. 

It must be borne in mind, however, that Cauliflower will 
not head in hot, dry weather, hence the sowings must be 
made so that they will mature in cool, moist weather. Give 
thorough culture and keep free from worms. 



38 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

The secret to Cauliflower culture is to get them started 
right. They will not always grow where cabbage will suc- 
ceed, at least that is the author's experience. Do not allow 
the plants to crowd each other in the seed bed. Trans- 
planting frequently, giving more room each time is essen- 
tial. 

Cauliflower requires a moist soil in connection with a 
cool moist atmosphere. The best Cauliflower seed comes 
from Denmark. Mulch the late ones. Work a little salt 
into the soil around the plants when cultivating them. This 
attracts moisture. 

Cauliflower may be kept in the cellar until February by 
covering the roots and stalks with soil; or they may be 
placed in a trench roots down, and the trench filled with 
soil up to the heads, and the heads covered with hay or 
straw deep enough to keep out the frost. 

Celsry (Apiu?n Graveoleus). — This delicious, healthful 
and appetizing vegetable has come so generally into use 
that there is scarcely a garden that does not have a patch 
devoted to its growth. Where the soil is rich (and it must 
be to insure success) and the plants are well cared for, your 
Celery will be one of the most highly prized products of 
your garden. 

The seed is slow to germinate and should be sown in 
shallow boxes, or in a thoroughly prepared, very rich bed, 
in a sunny nook in the garden as early as possible in April, 
or for winter use about a month later. L,eave half of this 
bed vacant for use when the plants are large enough for 
their first transplanting, or when they are about two inches 
high. Keep the bed moist — almost wet — until the seed 
germinates, as plenty of moisture is necessary to obtain a 
satisfactory growth. Apply the water carefully so as not 
to wash the bed; dashing it on will not do. 

Sow the seed (which is very small) in drills six inches 
apart, covering it but slightly, if at all; press it down firmly. 
Cultivate and keep free from weeds, and when about two 
inches high transplant them two or three inches apart. 

This crop usually succeeds some other crop, such as early 
beans, peas, potatoes, etc. , but in this case the soil must be 
very rich; the key to success in the culture of Celery is 
very rich soil and plenty of moisture. If large stocky plants 
are used they may be set out the early part of August, but 
I prefer to do this the last of June or the first of July. 
Much depends on your local climate, and should be so 
arranged that the plants will mature in cool, moist 
weather. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 39 

The plants must not be disturbed while wet, as this will 
greatly injure them. The new system of Celery culture 
consists of making a spot as rich as possible, and there set- 
ting the plants from six to eight inches apart each way. 
The plants are then blanched without further care, but the 
quality is inferior to that grown as of old. 

In the old mode of culture when the plants are five or six 
inches high cut off the tops (which will cause them to grow 
stocky) and transplant into trenches twelve inches deep 
and about a foot wide at the top and eight inches at the 
bottom, having the soil banked up on each side. The bot- 
tom of the trench should be covered six inches deep with 
very fine manure or compost upon which is two or three 
inches of fine soil on which the plants are set. In dry 
weather a good soaking of water or the washing suds is es- 
sential; the latter is the best material that can be used. 
Shade the plants a few da3 r s until well rooted. This may 
be done by driving stakes along the rows and broad boards 
laid on these. About the 15th of August it is advisable to 
commence "earthing up," necessary for the proper blanch- 
ing; then, too, Celery grows faster after the stalks are 
straightened up and the soil drawn around them, and packed 
firmly enough to keep them in an upright position. For 
this reason it is best to commence banking it early to give 
it an upright growth. 

Be careful not to cover the hearts with soil nor to allow 
it to get among the stalks, for they will not thrive in the 
former case while in the latter they will be difficult to clean 
for use. In banking keep the ridge flat on top, to aid in 
blanching later on, and cultivate the soil thoroughly be- 
tween the rows. The banking process must be repeated as 
the plants grow. Always select a dry day and when the 
soil is just damp enough to pack, taking care that no soil 
gets among the leaves. 

It also aids in blanching to have the plants a little below 
the level, as in trenches. The self-blanching varieties are 
not as good keepers as the others; some of them not keep- 
ing longer than Christmas. When the last "earthing up" 
has been made, the soil must be beaten tolerably firm to 
throw off the rains. 

When severe frosts set in a covering of some kind must 
be placed over the tops of the ridges to protect the plants. 
This must be done gradually as the cold increases. A 
trough may be inverted on the top of the ridge to hold the 
covering in place. Another and easier way to blanch it is 
to set the plants on the level ground, although the first 
way is the best in hot, dry seasons if the trenches are made 



40 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

running east and west, thereby shading the plants from the 
rays of the sun, which is very beneficial. But if the plants 
are set on the level, which does away with much hard la- 
bor, the easiest way to blanch the crop is by "boarding up," 
which is simply setting a board of the proper height on 
each side of the row close up to the plants, on its edge and 
held in position by stakes. When properly blanched your 
crop may be dug and is read}' to market or store away for 
winter. - 

The following method is one which we can recommend 
where the weather is too severe to allow the crop to remain 
where grown: Set the plants as closely together as the 
bunches of the roots will allow without crowding, upon and 
partial^ in a layer of moist soil, in the corner of the cellar. 
Keep the roots moist and the tops dry, using the plants 
that are most nearly blanched first. Instead of setting di- 
rectly on the cellar floor, you ma}' place them in boxes of 
convenient size, having soil in the bottom. Bore a few 
holes in the sides of- the box, through which you can apply 
water as needed. 

Celeriac is grown similar to celery when that crop is 
grown on the surface and is used as a salad or in seasoning. 
Transplant the plants to moist, rich soil in rows two feet 
apart and six inches in the rows. Give good cultivation. 
It is more hardy than celery and as the roots are the edible 
part of this vegetable banking is not necessary, but recom- 
mended. When the bulbs are two inches in diameter they 
are ready for use. The roots are preserved for winter sim- 
ilar to beets, carrots, etc. It makes a delicious salad when 
cooked and sliced with vinegar. 

Celery rust is occasioned by anything that injures the 
roots — a long drought or an excess of water which kills the 
working roots, and the yellowing up or rusting of the leaves 
soon follows. This delicious delicacy is said to have origi- 
nated in Germany. 

Chives. These are entirely hardy perennials, and are of 
the onion family, grown exclusively for their tops which 
are used wherever the flavor of the onion is required. It 
also makes a fine effect when planted among bedding plants. 
Plant in small clumps in good soil and keep free from 
weeds. 

They grow quickly and in time the clump will need to 
be divided. Being entirely hardy they appear quite early 
and may be cut throughout the season. The tops only are 
used and if not allowed to flower will produce much 
longer. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 41 

Chicory {Cichorium intybus). — This is closely related to 
our winter Endive (Cichorhtm endivia) and grows from 
two to three feet high, has sky-blue flowers and in some 
sections is found in fields and by the wayside. It makes 
an excellent winter salad when blanched. The seeds are 
sown in May in drills three-fourths of an inch deep and 
fifteen inches apart. 

It requires a rich, mellow soil of good depth. When two 
or three inches high the plants should be thinned to eight 
inches apart. The soil requires frequent cultivation and 
should be kept absolutely clear of weeds. To blanch them, 
boxes or flower pots about twelve inches deep should be 
turned over the plants. When wanted for winter use the 
plants are taken up late in the fall, and planted closely in 
boxes of light soil or sand and then placed in a cool cellar, 
watering them after planting. When wanted for use a box 
of them should be placed in a warm room, where the tem- 
perature will be from 50 to 6o°. Growth will soon com- 
mence. 

Many people like the flavor of coffee better where a little 
chicory or succory has been added. Where it is grown for 
this purpose the plants should be fully grown. The roots 
are then cut into small pieces, and roasted to a good coffee 
color, and then it may be mixed with the coffee or used 
separate^ in making that world-renowned beverage. 

Collards. — These originated in the south where they are 
extensively grown, as they are a sure, easy crop and afford 
an abundance of food for both man and beast. Collards are 
the result of the effort of the cabbage to perpetuate itself 
under an adverse climate. It forms a quantity of leaves on 
a tall stem, which are much improved by being touched by 
frost. It grows quickly and is a staple form of "greens" 
in the south but not much cultivated in the north. The 
new "Blue Stem" variety produces fine blanched heads 
which are of more delicate flavor than the old variety. As 
the leaves are gathered the plant continues to grow and 
produce new leaves in abundance. In the southern states 
growth continues throughout the winter, but in the north- 
ern states the weather is too severe. 

The Collard is cultivated winter and summer in rows not 
less than three feet apart; is a very exhaustive feeder and 
must have very rich soil and should not be grown on the 
same soil two successive seasons. The heading may be 
greatly facilitated by bending the plants over and covering 
the stems and some of the lower leaves with soil, which 
tends to check the rampant growth and cause the leaves in 



42 THE PARMER'S GARDEN 

the center to form finer heads. This should be done after 
the first light frosts. 

Corn Salad. — This is a hardy plant, and is one of the most 
economical of all small salads, and may be used as a substi- 
tute for lettuce in winter. It may also be cooked and served 
as is spinach. 

For early spring use the seed is sown in August, and in 
April for summer use. Sow in rows one foot apart, cover- 
ing the seeds lightly. As this plant reaches maturity in 
about four weeks in summer, a succession of sowings will 
be necessary where this plant is relished. Cultivate same 
as spinach, and protect from frost by a light covering of 
leaves or litter which may be held in place bj^ a few branches. 
Of no value in the hot summer months. 

Sugar Corn. — Every garden large or small should contain 
a full supply of this universal favorite for table use, for who 
is there that does not enjoy a plentiful supply of "roastin' 
ears. ' ' 

The early varieties should be planted as soon as possible 
after the soil has become warm and the weather settled ; or 
about the time field corn is planted; or earlier, taking chances. 
To have the finest sweet corn of any variety it should be 
picked in just the right condition; that is, when the skin 
breaks at the slightest puncture, and plantings should be 
so made as to always have a supply at this stage. The 
quality is inferior if a few days too old or too young. It 
will be well to remember that the early kinds are as a rule 
of poor quality, as they lack the richness of the later kinds, 
yet there are exceptions to even this rule as in everything 
else. 

Prepare the soil thoroughly in everyway and use plenty 
of seed, as the early sorts do not exceed three feet in height. 
A little compost mixed with the soil will help it along. The 
best is raised on a shale. When the ears are gathered cut 
the fodder or it will soon go to waste. The whole maize 
family requires warm, rich soil to do its best, and will not 
make any headway until the weather is settled and will be 
very likely to rot; sweet corn especially will decay where 
common field corn will grow and the purer and sweeter the 
seed the less hardships it will bear. Always select a warm 
soil if possible, especially for the earlier varieties, as the 
difference in soil and exposure will make at least a week's 
difference in the time of maturity, besides insuring a crop. 

All varieties of sweet corn may be sown in rows four feet 
apart and the grains placed eight or ten inches apart in the 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 43 

rows. This is best for early sorts for when planted at the 
regular distances, three or four feet each way, too much 
room is wasted, but the distance should be regulated ac- 
cording to the variet)' planted or the richness of the .soil. 
The taller the variety or the richer the soil the greater 
should be the distance apart. Continue planting every 
two or three weeks until the last of July when a crop may 
be secured by planting an early sort. 

Always select the long deep grains for seed purposes 
whenever possible; by doing this you will always raise a 
better crop of finer qualit3 r than otherwise. Select those 
varieties having a white cob, as the silks are also white 
making it easier to prepare and giving it a finer appearance 
when cooked or dried than those having dark cobs and silks. 

An excellent way to boil corn is to boil it with a portion 
of the husks remaining on the ears. Remove the silks and 
tough outer husks, leaving the white inner leaves only. 
The corn will be much sweeter if cooked in this way. 
Parched sweet corn is quite palatable. 

It must be borne in mind that sugar corn must be planted 
at some distance from field corn and pop corn or they will 
cross and the quality of your sugar corn will be greatly de- 
teriorated. The exact distance at which they should be 
from each other cannot be given here as circumstances differ, 
but it must be considerable as the pollen is very light and 
is carried by the wind, bees, etc. , long distances. 

Pop Corn. — This should be grown in ever}' garden, es- 
pecially if there are little ones in the family to enjoy it dur- 
ing the long winter evenings, which bring children together 
for social enjoyment while older people as well seem to have 
no objections to "poppin' " some corn. It is a fact not 
generally known that it does not arrive at its best for pop- 
ping until it is a year or more old, and, that when well 
popped it becomes nearly twenty times its natural size. 

The white rice is generally considered the best variety 
but a variety of kinds is attractive. Cultivate similar to 
field corn. The soil should be rich and mellow. Plant in 
rows three feet apart and fifteen inches between the hills, 
three stalks to a hill; 50 to 100 bushels of forty pound each 
may be grown on one acre. 

Great care must be exercised in keeping pop corn entirely 
isolated from either field corn or sugar corn while growing, 
as mixing with these will spoil its popping qualities. Be 
careful to store it away from mice. 

A great amount of pleasure may be derived from popping 
and preparing it in various ways on the long winter even- 



44 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

ings that drag so on the "folks at home," and, too, it keeps 
the young folks at home when otherwise they might seek 
entertainment at the village. 

An Excellent way to Pop Corn. — Into a vessel of lard, 
heated as for frying cakes, put half a pint of shelled pop 
corn, and cover the vessel to prevent the corn from popping 
out. Care must be taken that the corn does not burn. 
When done, take it out with a skimmer and drain thoroughly 
on a sieve over a pan. Salt to suit the taste. 

To make Pop Corn Balls. — The corn must be well popped; 
all that is not nicely popped should be discarded. Place one- 
half bushel of the corn in a large dripping pan. Into a 
suitable kettle put one pound of sugar with a little water 
and boil as for candy until it becomes quite waxy in water; 
then remove from the fire and dip into it seven tablespoons 
of thick gum solution, made by pouring boiling water upon 
gum arabic some hours before needed. Now dip the mix- 
ture upon different parts of the corn. With the hands or a 
stick mix the corn until thoroughly saturated with the syr- 
up or candy mixture; then make into balls, being quick 
or it will set before you get through. The above will make 
about one hundred balls. White or brown sugar may be 
used. For variety white sugar may be used for a portion 
and molasses for another part. When making balls pop 
the corn in the usual manner, without the lard. 

Cress (Lenidium sativum). — A justly popular and very 
appetizing salad plant which should be sown in early spring, 
very thickly in shallow drills, and at frequent intervals for 
succession, as it soon runs to seed. It will bear cutting 
several times during the season. Used mixed with lettuce 
its leaves impart an agreeable, warm, pungent taste. The 
leaves should be cut while young and tender to be palatable. 

Water Cress is a hardy, perennial, aquatic plant which 
thrives best along the banks of running streams or ponds 
or in other moist situations, the former being best suited to 
its growth. The plants increase rapidly from extensions of 
the roots and from self-sown seed from year to year. This 
is one of the most appetizing, delicious flavored of all small 
salads and grows luxuriantly on the edges of shallow streams 
as above stated. The seed may be sown in May where the 
plants are to remain, and the thinnings transplanted and 
should be set not less than a foot apart. The Cress will be 
ready for gathering the second season. The leaves are 
quite large and thick. 

Upland Cress is a perennial resembling Water Cress in 
flavor, is good all the year round and is recommended for 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 45 

dry localities where Water Cress will not thrive. Cut often 
while the leaves are young and tender, as they then possess 
a pleasant, pungent flavor that is quite agreeable. 

Cucumber {Cticumis Satavtis). — This is one of the vege- 
tables mentioned in early bible history for we read of it in 
Numbers xi, 5, and Isaiah 1, 8, while it grows abundant^ 
in Egypt, and is common in Palestine, being grown by 
acres on the plains, and is the staple article of vegetable 
diet of the poor, during summer. They are also a great 
relish with us, as an appetizer, and are quite tender as are 
all semi-tropical plants. 

Cucumbers require a rich, sandy soil, the hills being 
made about three feet apart. These are best made by mix- 
ing rich, ver3 r fine manure in the soil where the hill is 
to be. 

A splendid way to raise an early supply without expense 
and with little labor, is to dig out a hole large enough to 
hold a wheelbarrowful of manure, finely pulverized; cover 
this with five inches of fine, rich soil, and plant the seeds 
in this, covering about one inch deep. Keep the soil moist 
to keep it from crusting and to germinate the seeds. These 
hills should, however, be in a warm sunny nook to insure 
success. 

For an ordinary crop prepare the soil as directed at the 
beginning of this subject. Sow in May for early use and 
the 15th of June for pickles. The vines will bear more 
abundantly if the tips of the leading shoots are pinched off 
when the vines are about one foot in length. When all 
danger from bugs is over thin out the plants, leaving not 
more than three or four to each hill. The fruit should be 
gathered when large enough whether required for use or 
not, for if permitted to ripen on the vines it will destro)' 
their productiveness, for the vines having filled their nat- 
ural tendencies — that of preserving the species — soon wither 
and die. Keep the soil mellow and free from weeds and 
draw a little around the stems from time to time as the 
vines advance in growth. 

White Spine is a favorite with some in many respects, 
especially for market, as they retain a greenish tinge even 
when nearly ripe for seed. These like all others are best 
when picked while young and brittle. 

The spaces between the hills of Cucumbers, as well as 
melon and squash hills, may be occupied by pepper plants 
as they grow above the foliage of the vines and require very 
little room, and will receive the benefit of the moisture 
which is retained in the soil bv the shade afforded by the 



46 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

vines. This also economizes space. White varieties are 
quite attractive. 

Forcing Cucumbers. — This method is sometimes resorted 
to where a few extra early Cucumbers are desired. It may 
be somewhat tedious to the average gardener, and while the 
directions given above are ample for ordinary use, we will 
give a few directions for those who wish to try them. First, 
procure a variety suited to frame culture. Any kind will 
do, but some are more suited to this purpose than are others. 

Now prepare your hot bed in February or March. In 
two or three days after preparing the bed the soil will be 
sufficiently warm for sowing the seed; now place a wheel- 
barrowful of rich, fine soil in the center of the sash, in the 
form of a mound; on this sow several seeds to allow for 
those that may damp off as sometimes happens in cloudy 
weather. If all grow, thin to four plants. Place the pointed 
end of the seed down, covering about one inch deep. Cover 
the sash with straw, old carpets, or litter, or other pro- 
tection to prevent the heat from escaping, and, too, the bed 
should be surrounded with manure for same reason. The 
seed will sprout in a day or two, and in a week or ten days 
will form strong plants. During growth give plenty of air 
whenever the weather permits, being careful that the tem- 
perature does not fall below 6o°. 

Keep them growing vigorously without too much forcing. 
When they have formed three rough leaves nip off the tip 
of the plant. This will cause them to branch. If the soil 
becomes dry water with luke-warm water. As growth pro- 
gresses, roots will start from the vines and through the hill, 
to which rich soil should be placed. The surface roots will 
soon find their way through this and the whole surface of 
the bed will soon be covered with foliage, flowers and fruit. 
Syringing every day will prove quite beneficial. A soak- 
ing of weak, liquid manure at least once a week will aid in 
making a vigorous growth. 

Or. the seeds may be sown in pots half filled with light, 
rich soil, and plunged to the rim in the hot bed or green- 
house. Fill up the pots as the plants grow, and when they 
have attained some growth the)^ should be shifted into 
larger pots and finally placed in the frames in which plants 
have been wintered, as these will -be empty in May or June. 
Place the frame where good drainage is insured, and place 
a barrowful of rich soil in the frame as directed above. 

In planting be careful not to injure the roots, and keep 
the bed closed and shaded until well established. As 
soon as fruit appears the shoot bearing it should have the 
tip pinched out and every fruit cut as soon as large enough, 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 47 

for if any are allowed to ripen, the vine, having filled its 
natural design, will soon wither and die. Large specimens 
look well when on exhibit, but are exhausting to the plant. 
In the heat of the day a light sprinkle of straw or leaves 
over the sash will prevent the plants from drooping. 

The Gherkin is raised similar to outdoor cucumbers. 
The fruits are small, oval and covered with spines; color 
light green, while the vine closely resembles that of the 
watermelon. Excellent for pickles when gathered while 
quite small. 

When gathering vine fruits exercise care in so doing if 
you want the vines to continue bearing. Nip off the fruit 
leaving the stem attached. A slight pull will loosen the 
vine from the soil thus injuring it. 

Protect your crop from insect pests by dusting the plants 
with dust or soot while wet with dew; and plant a few rad- 
ish, turnip or cabbage seeds in each hill to guard them 
against the small black flea. 

Fruits should be cut early in the morning or in the even- 
ing, using a sharp knife or shears, taking care not to injure 
the vines. 

Dandelion {Taraxacum officinale). — The Dandelion re- 
sembles endive and affords one of the earliest as well as one 
of the most wholesome spring greens. Sow the seed in 
May or June in fine mellow soil in rows one foot apart, 
cover the seed one-half inch deep and firm the soil well 
over them. Thin the plants so that they will stand one 
foot apart each way. Cultivate during the summer, which 
will make the roots larger and considerable time will be 
Saved when trimming or gathering the crop which will be 
ready for use the following spring. The Dandelion has 
rather a bitter taste and should have the first water poured 
from them while cooking. They are quite healthful. 

Endive (Cichorhan Endivia). — This salad, though seldom 
grown, is one of the most valuable salad plants we have for 
fall and winter use. The first sowing of Endive should be 
made in April and successive sowings may be made once a 
month up to the end of August. The first sowing will best 
succeed on a warm border and should be transplanted one 
foot apart each way; or if preferred they may be thinned to 
the desired distance. 

Eater sowings ma}^ be made in any part of the garden 
providing the soil is rich and light. If this is the case the 
Batavian varieties must be 1 5 inches apart each way. When 
the plants are grown tie the outside leaves over the heart 



48 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

to blanch the inner leaves — 5 to 10 days are required for 
this. This must not be done, however, when the plants 
are damp or they will soon decay. When property grown 
this is one of the most appetizing of all salads, while if 
boiled like spinach it is relished by some. 

Egg Plant (Solaniim escalentuvi) . — This grand, good deli- 
cacy is too little grown, as it is one of the most delicious 
vegetables we have, and should be in every garden as it 
will thrive with good care in any good soil, and will repay 
good cultivation. 

The seeds are sown in hot beds and require considerable 
heat to germinate them, for as this is a sub-tropical plant 
it is of importance that they make a rapid growth from the 
first, as they never recover from a check received while 
young. Repeated sowings are sometimes necessary. 

Keep very warm and partially shaded, giving plenty of 
water until the weather is settled and the ground warm, 
and all danger from cold nights is past; then harden the 
plants by gradual exposure to the sun and air and diminish 
the amount of water. Sow in March and when they have 
attained the second rough leaf transplant two or three inches 
apart, handling carefully. It is a very tender plant and care 
must be used when they are set out or they will be chilled 
by the change. This and tomato plants are second choice 
of the potato bug which will destroy them if not checked. 
Set in rows two feet apart each way in very rich soil, and 
give every advantage possible. If needed shade the plants 
until well established, and draw the soil up to their stems 
as they advance in growth. 

Pick the eggs as soon as large enough as the quality 
deteriorates as they begin to ripen. When well grown your 
Egg Plants will be one of the most highly prized products 
of the garden. They should have the richest soil possible 
from the seed bed throughout their entire growth. When 
gathering the "eggs" care should be observed so as not to 
disturb the roots of the plants or they will be severely dam- 
aged. In the more northerly states this vegetable must 
have every care to succeed. Gather the fruits before the 
seeds harden. On the approach of frost gather all fruits 
that are large enough for use as they will keep for a con- 
siderable length of time. 

In the summer when the soil is- liable to become dry it 
may be kept moist by placing a mulch of hay or straw 
around the roots of the plants to a depth of two or three 
inches. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 49 

Garlic {Allium Sativum). — This is the most pungent of 
the onion tribe and not much used except by the Germans 
and for medicine. The history of this vegetable dates back 
into antiquity, as we find it mentioned in Numbers xi, 5, 
and was one of the vegetables enjoyed by the Israelites in 
Egyptian bondage; while Herodotus (450 B. C.) writes 
that in his time there was an inscription on the great pyra- 
mid telling of the 16,000 talents that were spent for onion, 
leek and garlic, with which to feed the builders of the 
pyramid. 

The roots are composed of several divisions called ' 'cloves." 
These are separated in the spring and planted as are onion 
sets, in rows two feet apart and six inches in the rows. Do 
not allow the plants to run to seed stalk. This may be pre- 
vented by breaking down the tops or by tying them in a 
knot. In the autumn when ripe, pull and tie together in 
bunches and put away for future use. 

Horse Radish. — This favorite vegetable may be grown in 
any garden soil, but a moist situation is best suited to its 
growth. The best shaped roots are grown from the small 
roots, and not from the tops or crowns. These sets planted 
in spring in rich, moist soil will produce roots of large size 
the first season. 

Before setting, the tops are cut off slantingly to prevent 
water from standing on them and causing them to decay. 
Some advise digging in the fall before the ground freezes 
and storing in trenches, or in sand in the cellar. This may 
do in some cases but I would prefer to dig as needed, as 
they retain their strength and aroma better. 

From the large roots a supply of sets may be secured for 
planting. Horse Radish is a difficult plant to eradicate 
when once established, and therefore had best be kept un- 
der control. 

In planting the sets a trowel may be used, or they ma} r be 
planted by driving the spade full length into the soil flat to 
the garden line and moved back and forth to make a hole; 
two sets may be placed in this, one at each side. Press the 
soil to them and you are sure of success as this vegetable 
is sure to grow almost regardless of conditions. This is a 
favorite relish and one that is quite wholesome and appe- 
tizing. 

Herbs, — A small plot of Sweet Herbs and Pot Herbs 
should be found in every vegetable garden, be it large or 
small, for every good housewife knows the value of a small 
patch of herbs upon which she can make daily visits in the 



50 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

summer and which furnishes such a nice collection of sea- 
soning for winter use, and without which the Thanksgiving 
and Christmas turkey would be scarcely worth the having; 
while as domestic medicines many are held in high repute. 
A very small patch is sufficient for the requirements of the 
average family. 

Their culture is very simple, as follows: Sow the seed 
in a seed bed of rich earth in a corner of the garden in 
early spring and transplant into rows as soon as they have 
attained sufficient size. On the average the rows should be 
at least 1 8 inches apart and about a foot between the plants. 
Herbs in general thrive best in a mellow and free soil and 
care should be exercised in properly harvesting them in a 
dry state. The chief points are to cut them on a dry day 
just before they come into full bloom and to dry them 
quickly in the shade; when thoroughly dry pack them 
closely in dry, air-tight boxes, keeping them entirely ex- 
cluded from the air. 

Some of them are perennial and when once obtained in 
the garden may be preserved for many years with a little 
care in summer and slight protection during winter. They 
should be in a bed to themselves where they will not inter- 
fere with the management of the rest of the garden. 

Many people still grow the simple medicinal herbs for 
home use. Seed of those of which the leaves are used 
either in green or dry state, perennial varieties especially, 
should be sown thinly in shallow drills as early as the soil 
can be made fine and mellow, as the seeds germinate better 
in cool, moist weather. The perennials should be trans- 
planted to permanent beds on the borders where they will 
not interfere with cultivation of the remainder of the gar- 
den. The annuals should also be sown early, making the 
rows 1 8 inches apart and setting the plants about one foot 
apart in the rows for such varieties as are grown for their 
leaves, and two feet apart for those producing aromatic 
seeds. The former should be cut and dried as given above, 
while the seed heads of the latter should be cut as soon as 
ripened and spread in a cool airy room or tied in small bun- 
dles, and may be threshed and cleaned, when they are 
read}^ for use. 

Below we give a list of the most common varieties with 
the manner of using. The following- N are annuals: 

Anise {Pimpinella anisum) — Used for cordial, flavoring; 
the seeds are aromatic. Balm {Melissa officinalis) — Leaves 
have a fragrant odor; used in making balm wine, also for 
balm tea for use in fevers. Basil (Ocymum basilicum) — 
Leaves are used for flavoring soups and other highly sea- 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 51 

soned dishes. Bene {Sesamum orientate) — The leaves im- 
mersed in water make a drink very beneficial in cases of 
diarrhoea, while the seeds furnish an oil used for softening 
the skin. Borage {Borago officinalis) — Leaves are used 
for flavoring; flowers for bee pasture. Coriander {Cor- 
iandrum savitum) — The seeds only are used. Dill {Ane- 
thum graveolens) — -The seeds are aromatic and of a warm, 
pungent taste. Used as seasoning; also for pickling. 
Marjoram {Origanum marjoram^) — The leaves and ends of 
shoots are used for seasoning both green and dry. Savory, 
summer {Satureia hortensis) — Leaves and blossoms are used 
for flavoring, especially soups and dressings. 

The following varieties are of perennial nature and re- 
main in the ground for years with slight protection in 
winter: 

Caraway ( Carum carui) — Seeds used for flavoring bread, 
pastry, etc. Fennel, sweet {Anethum foenicidum) — The 
boiled leaves are used in fish sauces. Horehound (Mar- 
rubium vidgare) — Leaves used for seasoning and in the 
manufacture of the favorite cough remedy. Lavender 
{Lavendula vera) — Aromatic, medicinal. Pennyroyal 
{Mentha pulegium) — But little known. Of a bright green 
suited for growing on rockwork. Rosemary {Rosmarinus 
officinalis) — Leaves aromatic; used for seasoning. Sage 
{Salvia officinalis) — See Sage culture. Savory, winter 
{Satureia ??wntana)—'L l ea.ves and tender shoots used for 
flavoring. Tansy {Tanacetum vidgare) — For medicinal 
purposes. Tagetes Lucida. — Very pretty, and an excellent 
substitute for tarragon. Thyme ( Thymus vulgaris) — Leaves 
and tender shoots used for flavoring; a tea is also made for 
nervous headache. Wormwood {Artemisia absinthium) — 
Medicinal; good for poultry. Tarragon {Artemisia dra- 
cunculus) — Used for seasoning or salads. The stems may 
be cut and dried. Must have protection in the north. In- 
creased by layering or from slips. Saffron {Crocus sativus) 
— Flowers used for dyeing; also used medicinally. Cat- 
nip or Catmint {Ncpeta cataria) — Leaves and young shoots 
used for seasoning and for "Catnip tea." Rue {Ruta gra- 
veolens) — Medicinal. Good for fowls, for colds and croup. 

Kohl Rabi {Brassica oleracca caulo-rapa). — This like okra 
and many other vegetables is too little appreciated by many, 
for when properly prepared it is one of the most desirable, 
as it combines the virtues of both the cabbage and turnip, 
but excels either in productiveness, hardiness and quality. 
Seed should be sown in drills 15 inches apart and trans- 
plant the surplus ones into rows 8 inches between the plants. 



52 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Choose a rainy day for this, as they are considered difficult 
to transplant. 

Sow at intervals of 10 days for a succession until hot 
weather, when they fail to grow well. Those sown for 
winter use should be sown in July, and for the reasons given 
will do better if thinned to the proper distance. The bulb 
should be used while young — about the size of an orange — 
as age detracts from its good quality. They may be pre- 
served for winter use as are beets and carrots, and are im- 
proved by being frozen before they are gathered. 

Leek {Allium Porruni). — Aside from being valuable for 
soups and salads, blanched Leek makes an excellent dish 
when sliced and cooked as are peas. This fact does not 
seem to be generally known, as Leeks are seldom seen in 
the average farmer's garden. They may be had all winter 
if dug with the roots on and stored in moist sand in the 
cellar. 

Sow the seed very early, about March ist, in a rich seed 
bed in a sheltered place. Keep well watered while in the 
seed bed. When six inches high transplant into trenches 
six inches deep, with very rich soil in the bottom. Fill up 
the trenches as the plants grow, and afterwards draw soil 
up to them. As a result you will have fine large Leeks 12 
inches long that will tempt the palate of the epicure. 

Perhaps few are aware that the Leek is one of the finest 
winter vegetables, and when properly grown can be had 
with from six inches to one foot of white which when boiled 
is very nutritious, and much milder than the onion. With 
a good supply of crisp and tender vegetables all carefully 
put into a root cellar, we are prepared to give a change of 
diet all winter as well as summer. 

Lettuce (Lartuca saliva). — This valuable salad amply re- 
pays any trouble that may be bestowed on its cultivation. 
Lettuce is divided into two classes; the cabbage with round 
heads and the cos with long head and erect narrow leaves. 
The cabbage varieties are firmer, the most tender and but- 
tery, while the latter are most refreshing. 

Prepare the soil by digging deeply and manuring heav- 
ily, while after planting never allow the plants to suffer for 
water. Sow in the open ground as ^arly as possible in 
drills one foot apart and as soon as large enough thin out 
or transplant to four inches apart; or if you have any plants 
from fall sowing, transplant into a rich bed and hoe well. 
If sown in hot bed let it be sown early, give but little heat 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 53 

and plenty of water. Sow a- couple of rows quite thickly 
to be used while young. 

For later use sow in a partially shaded place in rich soil 
and water freely. That which is sown early should be iu a 
warm, sunny nook, continuing successive sowings every 
two or three weeks until July. Sow the hardy sorts in 
August or September for spring use, and protect with 
frames, leaves or litter, while if a few of the best plants are 
allowed to sow their own seed you will have an abundance 
of this delicious salad very early. Always keep the soil 
mellow and free from weeds, as this requires good care as 
much as any other crop. 

There is no vegetable that is more universally used than 
is L,ettuce and yet comparatively few persons know how 
inviting and appetizing it really is when brought to the 
table fresh, crisp and unwilted, a condition in which we 
scarcely ever find this really excellent salad in our markets, 
and which can only be secured by growing the plants in 
our own kitchen gardens. In fact this is the case with 
nearly all vegetables; the fresher they are the better will 
be their qualities. For this and various other reasons we 
urge all our friends to have at least a small vegetable patch 
and to raise a full supply of deliciously crisp and tender 
garden "sass." 

.Melon, Musk {Cucumis Mclo). — This, everybody's fav- 
orite, espeeialby^early ones, delights in a light, rich, sand} T 
soil, and contra^ to the common opinion is of easy culti- 
vation. As to its early history we find it mentioned in 
Numbers xi, 5, while Pliny records its use, and as he died 
A. D. 79 we judge it is as old as the cucumber. They 
flourish in Egypt from May to November and grow ver} T 
large and are a staple crop, refreshing to both the thirst}' 
as well as the hungry. This refers to the watermelon. 

If your soil is infested by cut worms plow as early as 
possible in the spring. Rake or harrow the manure into 
the soil and make the hills from 3x3 to 4^x4^ feet apart. 
These should be inadeven' rich by thoroughly incorporating 
very fine manure into the soil. 

The manure described for Watermelons is also splendid 
for these. Place a shovelful in each hill and tramp firmly; 
make a hill over this and sow the seed, putting six to eight 
in each hill. Cover about one inch deep and firm the soil 
above the seed. As soon as in rough leaf loosen the soil 
around the plants. Do not bruise the vines or they will be 
injured. When the plants are 6 to S inches high, rake 
with a wooden rake and hoe again. Keep the soil mellow 



54 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

and destroy grass and weeds. The striped bug may cause 
trouble and damage to the young plants, and must be kept 
in check. (See the chapter on injurious insects.) 

Muskmelons are very tender and will not bear rough 
usage. Neither should they be handled when wet. As 
soon as the plants are large enough to care for themselves 
thin down to three or four of the most promising. Pinch 
off the tips of the leading shoots if the growth becomes too 
vigorous. If the fruits set too thickly, thin out when 
young. This will increase the size of the remaining ones 
and cause them to ripen earlier. They have reached ma- 
turity when they will leave the vine under slight pressure. 
The quality is best when the fruits are ripened in the 
shade. 

Gather as soon as ready or the hot sun will soon spoil 
them. Sickly vines, unsuitable soil or unfavorable weather 
will produce fruit of poor flavor. Keep the vines growing 
vigorously from the start. 

Melon, Water (Cucurbita citrulhis). — Watermelons thrive 
best in a warm, sandy loam. They grow best in a clover 
sod of the above texture. As cut worms abound it is best 
to plow in the autumn or early in the spring. 

With good soil and plenty of manure to place in the hills 
success is reasonably assured. Place a shovelful in each 
hill and cover about four inches deep with fine soil. Make 
the hills about 6x6 feet. As to the manure best suited to 
their growth I think horse and hog manure half and half; 
or the scrapings from the barnyard make a most excellent 
fertilizer. This must be well incorporated with the soil or 
it will burn the plants and cause a failure. The seeds, six 
or eight in number to each hill, are covered with fine mel- 
low soil one inch deep. This should be firmly packed over 
the seeds. Do not allow the soil to crust. 

Cultivate thoroughly to keep the soil loose and free from 
weeds. Sow as early as possible using an early kind. Seed 
three or four years old is said to be better than strictly 
fresh seed as it gives more solid flesh with fewer seeds. 
Handle the vines carefully and do not tread on them when 
o-athering the melons as this is certain to injure them. 

"Do not plant too close to pumpkins or squashes or they 
will hybridize and spoil your melons' ' is what some people 
say, but I have never known this to happen although it 
may be a fact. The essential points for success are: Suit- 
able soil, pure seed, good culture, plenty of manure, and 
o-ood strong vines early in the season. When the Melons 
have arrived at maturity the quirl nearest the Melons will 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 55 

have died. By this you will know when they are ripe with- 
out plugging them. Care must be exercised that water- 
melons and citrons or preserving melons are not planted in 
close proximity or they will cross and spoil both crops. 

Mustard {Sinapis alba (white) and Sinapis nigra (black). 
— This is a hardy plant and is used as a salad in early spring 
and is very appetizing, being slightly warm to the taste. 
In England mustard and cress mixed is used as a salad 
and is one of their table delicacies. In this case water 
cress is preferable. 

Seed of this vegetable is sown as soon as the frost is out 
of the ground in shallow drills one foot apart and one-half 
inch deep in mellow soil. The plants will soon present 
themselves and be ready for use as they must be used while 
young and tender, for when old they become unfit for use. 
If mustard is desired for winter use allow the plants to run 
to seed. These should be gathered before the seed begins 
to scatter, dried, threshed and ground. When using this 
"home grown" mustard it should be mixed with vinegar 
and allowed to stand a while before using. If this is neg- 
lected the mustard will have a bitter taste, owing, I suppose, 
to the fact that the skin of the seed is not removed as is the 
case with that which we buy. The black mustard is used 
for this purpose. 

Do not allow seed to scatter on your ground as it is quite 
hard)- and will spread and become difficult to eradicate. 
Sinapis N. is supposed to be the plant referred to in 
Mathew xiii, 31; but this is not certain. 

Mushrooms {Agaricus campestris^ox Common Variety. — Of 
this fungi there are a great man)^ species. Around the 
growth of this highly esteemed and nutritious escullent 
there seems to be a profound mystery which can be pene- 
trated only by the initiated; in reality, however, it is a ver} T 
simple matter, requiring only ordinary intelligence and care. 
They can be grown in any dark room or cellar where the 
temperature can be maintained at about 50 or 6o°. 

From some old pasture obtain the soil and store it away. 
To one bushel of this add two bushels of fresh horse ma- 
nure. Of this mixture prepare a bed four feet wide and of 
the length desired. Put down a thin layer of this and pack 
it firmly, proceeding in this manner until 3-ou have a bed 
eight inches thick. This will soon become quite hot, but 
allow the heat to recede to 85 ° or 90 . Then make holes 
about one foot apart each way and place the spawn in these 
— two or three pieces the size of a small egg in each hole. 



56 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Cover this and press the soil solid and smooth. Let the bed 
remain in this condition for ten or twelve days; then 'cover 
the bed with two inches of loam. Over this place four or 
five inches of hay or straw and the work is complete. 

If the work is properly done, in six or eight weeks you 
may reap your reward. The bed will continue in bearing 
twenty or thirty days. After gathering the crop spread an 
inch of fresh soil over the bed, moisten with warm water 
and cover as before. But success depends so much upon a 
proper and uniform moisture, temperature and other at- 
mospherical conditions that success is not always certain 
with the beginner. In market there is always a demand 
and an over supply is seldom known. 

Other edible varieties are: Marasmius oreades (Fairy 
Ring), Coprinits comatus (horse tail-), Cantharelhis cibarius, 
Chanterelle , and many others. 

To Distinguish Mushrooms from Poisonous Fungi. — 
Sprinkle a little salt on the gills or under side of the um- 
brella. If they turn black they are edible; if yellow they 
are poisonous. Allow the salt to aet before you decide. 
Poisonous mushrooms or fungi have a w T arty cap, or else 
fragments of membrane adhering to the upper surface, and 
emerge from a bag; the}' are also heavy while the mush- 
room proper is quite light. The}'' also grow in tufts or 
clusters in the woods, on the stumps of trees, etc., while 
the true edible mushrooms grow in old pastures late in the 
summer. False mushrooms or toadstools have an astrin- 
gent, styptic and disagreeable taste. They are moist on 
the surface and generally of a rose or orange color, and 
when cut they turn blue. The gills of the true mushroom 
are of a pinky red, changing to a liver color, while the flesh 
is white. The stem is white, solid and cylinderical with 
the ring a little more than half way up. The above rules 
hold good to those who are in the habit of gathering wild 
mushrooms. 

Okra. — This is an annual from the West Indies and like 
many others is seldom seen in the garden; yet its young, 
green seed pods give a fine flavor and consistency to soups, 
etc. , besides being very palatable when cooked and served 
as is asparagus. The pods while young and tender may 
also be dried for winter use. It is extensively grown 
throughout the southern states, and should be more gener- 
ally cultivated in our northern gardens as it is as easily 
grown as a weed. 

The plants, which bear large, white Hibiscus-like flowers 
with a deep maroon center, make a very pretty sight even in 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 57 

the flower garden. Okra is a vigorous plant requiring con- 
siderable space. The large variety should be planted three 
feet apart and the dwarf eighteen inches. In mild climates 
it is only necessary to sow the seed in the open garden 
about two inches deep and merely keep the soil clean and 
mellow as for a hill of corn, drawing the soil up to the 
stems as they advance in growth. The plants bear for a 
longer period if the pods are picked when of sufficient size. 
The surplus pods may also be dried for winter use by run- 
ning a thread through them and hanging them up from the 
flies, in a cool place. They must be gathered while young 
or they will be woody. They can also be canned with to- 
matoes. A grand vegetable. 

Onion {Allium Cepa). — This is another of the vegetables 
mentioned in Numbers xi, 5, as one of the vegetables of 
Egypt, where it is extensively grown near the Nile and in 
Syria, where it is eaten raw. The Egyptian variety is as 
large as the common Portugal variety. 

The onion thrives best in a rather deep, rich, loamy 
soil, and unlike most crops succeeds best when grown 
on the same ground for several successive seasons. To 
grow onions successfully the soil cannot be made too rich 
and must have more or less manure well worked through 
the soil for every crop, for it is a plant producing numerous 
roots which reach out and penetrate deeply, absorbing sus- 
tenance from every part of the soil. This is a splendid crop 
to follow cabbage, yet as regards rotation the Onion occu- 
pies an anomalous place as the same soil has been known 
to produce splendid crops for many years. The soil should 
be plowed in the autumn, heavily manured and left as 
plowed so that the ridges will be exposed to the action of 
the frost. This crop must have a clean and very rich soil 
to succeed. 

Use thoroughly decayed manure freely. This should be 
thoroughly incorporated with the soil before sowing the 
seed. Sow as early as possible in the spring no matter if 
the weather is cold and unpleasant, for if the Onion does 
not get a good start before the hot, dry weather the crop 
is sure to be a failure. Old seed will not produce a thrifty 
crop. Use new seed every time. Sow in drills one foot 
apart and one-half inch in depth, cover with fine soil and 
pressd own firmly. When the plants are large enough thin 
gradually so they will stand four inches apart, disturbing 
those remaining as little as possible. As Onions stand on 
top of the ground they may be allowed to grow pretty 
thickly, no matter if they do crowd each other. In hoeing 



58 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

just skim the surface of the soil keeping it level and do not 
cover the bulbs. Do not cultivate deeply but loosen the soil 
well up to the plants. 

The Onion requires a firm seed bed or it is liable to make 
too many roots at the expense of the crop. Do not cover 
the bulbs with soil, for the more the Onion rises out of the 
soil the better it keeps when stored. When three inches 
high thin to two inches apart. Pull every other Onion for 
salading, leaving the remainder four inches apart. A top 
dressing of wood ashes after cultivating is very beneficial, 
as will be seen by the dark, healthy condition given to the 
plants, besides saving them from the ravages of the maggot. 
Where it is possible an application of dry, fine hen manure 
put on in the same way will be of great benefit to the crop. 
When the tops dry and fall the crop should be gathered at 
once for various reasons, and spread evenly on the ground 
to cure. When thoroughly dried the tops should be cut off 
half an inch from the bulb. 

To grow pickling Onions the seed should be sown thickly 
on poor soil and allowed to grow without being thinned 
out. 

As stated elsewhere in this article a good crop of Onions 
can be grown on any soil that will produce paying crops of 
other vegetables, unless it is a stiff clay, very light sand or 
gravel. Certain varieties of muck land will invariably pro- 
duce stiff necks or "scallions" which are worthless on the 
market, as the3^ do not form bulbs and do not ripen down 
well, while other muck soils produce large crops of the fin- 
est grade. The soil best suited to their growth is a rich, 
sandy loam with a light mixture of clay. It is also much 
better if it has been cultivated, kept clean and well manured 
for a year or two previous, for if a sufficient amount of ma- 
nure to raise ordinary soils to a proper degree of fertility is 
applied just previous to the Onion crop, it is liable to make 
the Onions very soft and consequently they will be poor 
keepers. The quantity of seed required will vary with the 
soil, the variety to be grown and the grade desired. 

Thin seeding gives much larger bulbs than thick seeding. 
After the first hoeing, weeding must be continued. This 
is tedious work but it must be carefully and thorough^ 
done. The operator must work on his knees, astride the 
row, at the same time stirring the soil around the seedling 
Onions to destroy any weeds that may have started. In 
about two weeks they will require another cultivating and 
possibly another weeding. If the work has been thor- 
oughly done at the proper time the crop will require very 
little, if any further care until ready to harvest. Have 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 59 

your soil rich, do the work properly and your Onions will 
thrive and gain strength amazingly. 

The best Onion seed is raised from onions that were 
grown from sets. Sets are small onions grown the previous 
3'ear from seed sown very thickty (50 to 60 pounds per 
acre) and gathered when the size of peas. The smaller the 
better, as they produce the best crop. Set out in the spring 
they soon form a good large Onion, and also make excel- 
lent green Onions quite early. As previously stated the 
soil must be very rich. Do not manure too heavily in the 
spring or the crop will not be as firm as otherwise and will 
not keep as well when stored. Where you have any Onions 
left over from your winter supply they may be set out 
early and will soon make excellent young Onions to use 
with earl}' radishes and lettuce. 

There are two other kinds of Onions that are not raised from 
seed; these are the Potato and Top Onions. The former 
grows in clusters under the soil. These clusters are divided 
and the sets are planted in the spring and produce large 
Onions; these large Onions are set out and produce the sets. 
The latter produce the sets on top of the stalks where seed 
is produced on the common variety. These sets are planted 
in the spring and the crop is large Onions, and these with 
one year's growth produce the sets. 

Do not try to grow the Onion on poor, unsuitable soil or 
in a careless manner. Place the fertilizer on or near the 
surface and be cautious of whom you procure your seed. 

The Egytian Perennial, or Winter Onion, is quite hardy 
and should not be disturbed when once established. They 
are used for green Onions only and are propogated from 
the sets which grow on top of the stalks similar to Top 
Onions. These sets are planted in autumn and covered 
with stalks or strawy manure; this should be raked off be- 
fore growth commences in spring. These come very early 
and are sweet and tender. Gather your crop as soon as the 
tops die down and "cure" them thoroughly before you store 
them for winter. They should be packed in boxes made of 
lath; these boxes should be 16 inches wide, 24 inches long 
and 6 inches deep, with a slat nailed on the ends of the 
bottom to admit air to circulate freely. 

Parsley {Apium petroselimun) . — This useful little plant 
will grow almost anywhere. It does not require a very 
rich soil. Sow the seed in drills one foot apart, afterwards 
thinning the plants to four inches apart. Parsley seed ger- 
minates very slowly; therefore previous to sowing soak the 
seed in warm water for twenty- four hours, or all precau- 



60 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

tions must be taken to insure success. When sown it 
should be covered about half an inch deep with fine soil, 
which should be firmed over the seed. Always gather the 
large leaves first, and cut off all old ones to encourage 
a fresh growth. 

Parsley will live through the winter in the garden if pro- 
tected with leaves; or plant a few roots in a box and place 
them in a light cellar where they will grow all winter. This 
herb is used extensively in stuffings, etc. 

Parsnip (Pastmaca sativa). — This vegetable we find men- 
tioned by Pliny as being brought to Rome from the banks 
of the Rhine, at the command of the emperor Tiberius, 
for use on his table, A. D. 14. This delicious vegetable 
comes to its greatest perfection in a deep, rich and free soil 
that has been stirred to a depth of 12 inches and having 
been heavily manured for a previous crop, or the manure 
used should be thoroughly decayed. Sow in drills 18 inches 
apart as earl}' in the spring as the soil will permit. When 
two or three inches high thin to six inches apart. The 
Parsnip is entirely hardy and improves by being left in the 
ground through the winter taking only sufficient to the 
cellar to last while the soil is frozen. 

The roots are always best flavored when left where grown ; 
but when raised for market they may be pitted. They can 
be sold at remunerative prices when the crop in general is 
frozen in the ground. Be careful to dig the crop clean. 
Parsnips are also very nutritious food for milch cows and 
make a very rich and abundant flow of milk. 

Peas {Pisum sativum}. — The Pea is very hardy and will 
endure considerable cold either above or below the soil and 
as we all want green Peas as early as possible in the season 
the}' should be sown as early as the soil can be prepared in 
the spring. The earliest varieties are mostly small, round, 
smooth and more hardy than the wrinkled sorts and the 
tallest growing not more than three feet high. Of late 
years some very fine dwarf sweet wrinkled sorts have been 
added to this class. The late ones are large, mostly wrink- 
led and formerly were nearly all tall; but very many excel- 
lent dwarfs have been added to the list. If the earliest 
varieties are sown about April 1st they will be ready for 
use early in June. Those sown a little later will be ready 
about the Fourth of July. 

The large, fine wrinkled varieties are not asy hard as the 
small round sorts, and if sown very early they should have 
a dry soil or they are liable to rot. It is well to sow the 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 61 

earliest varieties as early as possible and two or three weeks 
later make another sowing, a few more early, and some for 
late use. The very latest varieties will not succeed in this 
country as they mildew in hot weather. 

The Pea does well almost anywhere but it likes a good, 
though not too rich, soil and deep cultivation. In wet sea- 
sons a too rich soil causes the plant to make too much 
growth which is an injury to the crop; but on the other 
hand a rich soil which also means a cool soil in a dry sea- 
son is of the greatest importance. To secure best results 
sow in moderately rich soil. 

Sow Peas in drills not less than two feet apart, and not 
less than four inches deep, especially the late sowings. 
The dwarfs which from their small growth are best suited 
for garden culture may be sown in rows one foot apart and 
one inch between the seeds. The tall sorts require a sup- 
port of some kind which should be supplied as soon as the 
Peas appear. The second sowing previously mentioned 
comes in nicely and are quite palatable. A row of early 
and late varieties may be sown side by side at the same 
time so that the same brush will answer for both. Rake 
over the rows just as the Peas are coming through the soil. 
The earliest and latest sowings should be made of dwarf 
and early varieties. 

The thin and deep sowing of Peas tends to make them 
bushy and prolong the period of bearing. A few may be 
sprouted in boxes in March and transplanted to the garden 
when the soil is ready. This will cause them to bear some 
time before the regular crop. An excellent support for 
Peas can be made by driving stakes at intervals of 6 or 
8 feet in the row and stretching wires on them 6 or 8 
inches apart. These may at the end of the season be rolled 
up and put away for next season. The wires may be se- 
cured to the stakes by small staples or by cutting slots 
slantingly in the stakes so that the wires will lie in them. 
The stakes should be set firmly in the ground or the weight 
of the vines and the wind will pull them over. There is 
nothing better than brush, however, when it is obtainable. 

If you use a commercial fertilizer procure one containing 
a large percent of soluble phosphoric acid. Very little potash 
is needed where the soil is in fair condition. Strawberries 
may be set where early Peas were grown. Celery is also a 
splendid crop to follow early beans and peas. 

Peanut (Arachis hypogaea). — Although this may not be- 
long to our list of vegetable dietary it may be well to say a 
few words here concerning: its culture. Many a long, 



62 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

dreary winter's evening may be enjoyed and pleasantly 
passed away by the young folks, and older ones too, by 
roasting Peanuts or by popping corn; for who is there who 
does not enjoy Peanuts or popcorn when made into candy 
or balls. 

The Peanut is a low, somewhat creeping annual, a mem- 
ber of the bean family. It is a native of the tropics but 
thrives in our more northern states. The best variety 
is said to be the Spanish variety. Being earlier they 
are less liable to get frosted in the fall. All varieties 
delight in a rich, sandy loam which contains some lime. 
Plant as early as possible after danger of frost is 
past. If you do not have a piece of sandy soil plant on 
laud on which oats were last grown. 

Plant in rows two feet apart, dropping the seeds eight 
inches apart and cover about two inches deep. Destroy all 
weeds and keep the soil mellow around the plants so that 
the blossoms may bury themselves. Only the first blooms 
bear fruit. After blooming, these flowers penetrate the soil 
several inches where the nuts ripen. A yield of from 80 to 
100 bushels per acre is common. 

In planting do not break the shell of the nut, as this pro- 
tects the kernel while germinating and keeps the nut warm 
while it decays. When ready to harvest pull up and pick 
off the nuts or "goobers"; shake the dirt from the vines 
and pile for fodder. When dry the nuts should be sacked 
and put in a dry place. In roasting use a large iron roast- 
ing pan and roast only a few at a time, as fresh nuts are 
superior to old ones. While roasting stir frequently, being 
careful not to burn them. 

Peppers {Capsicum). — This is a genus of plants closely 
related to the woody nightshade; the fruits are fleshy, of 
various shapes and sizes and usually of a bright scarlet or 
orange, more or less pungent and much used for flavoring, 
both whole and ground. In the latter form it is known as 
cayenne pepper which is very pungent. This vegetable 
should be found in every garden for mangoes and for other 
purposes. It is well to remember that the flavor is in in- 
verse ratio to the size of the fruits — the largest being the 
mildest while the smallest are the most pungent. 

Sow in a quite warm hotbed in March and transplant to 
open ground in May or when danger from cold snaps is 
past. They should be planted in warm, mellow, rich soil 
in rows 18 inches apart. They may also be sown in a warm, 
sunny nook in rich, mellow seedbed in the garden when the 
nights are warm. Where desired two plants may be set 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 63 

between the hills of cucumbers, melons, etc. As they grow 
above the vines they are not injured, but benefited by hav- 
ing their roots shaded and the soil kept moist by the broad 
leaves of the vines. Hen manure is an excellent fertilizer 
when worked in around the plants and will be found to in- 
crease their productiveness and also the quality of the 
fruits. When gathering the fruits for use pick a few green 
specimens, as they make a pleasing contrast when mixed 
with the ripe ones of the red and yellow varieties. 

Pumpkin {Ciiciirbita). — No one seems to have been able 
to trace the origin of either the Pumpkin or squash, but 
we read of Pumpkin pies being made over 300 years ago, 
after this recipe: "Cut a hole in the side, take out the seeds 
and filaments, stuff with a mixture of apples and spices and 
bake till done." 

These take up so much room that they properly belong 
in the cornfield, but if there is no other place to raise them 
they may be planted among the sweet corn or potatoes, 
providing they can be kept far enough from the squashes 
to prevent their crossing and spoiling the latter. Do not 
plant until settled weather. Plant in hills 6 feet apart each 
way and mix 3 or 4 shovelfuls of well rotted manure with 
the soil of each hill. Plant five or six seeds in each hill. 
Thin to three plants when about one foot in length. Cul- 
tivate and hoe thoroughly until there is danger of injuring the 
vines. The fruits should be gathered before heavy frosts 
(leaving the stems to them) being careful not to bruise the 
Pumpkins, and store in a cool, but frost proof room. 

Potatoes, Sweet {Batatas). — As these favorites are semi- 
tropical, they require a long season to mature and must be 
started in a hotbed. They may be grown in this previous 
to sowing late cabbage, etc. ; or the bed maybe constructed 
in a warm, sunny nook sheltered by a building. 

While the sun is warmest about April 1st, rake the bed 
over thoroughly so as to have the soil fine and of uniform 
depth. Now lay the seed. If large plants are desired the 
tubers should be two or three inches apart, carefully press- 
ing them into the soil. When the tubers are laid, cover 
three inches deep with mellow loam, raking the surface 
smoothly. If the job is well done the soil will warm up in 
two or three da}^s, but the temperature must not be allowed 
to rise above 75 or 8o°. The plants may appear in two or 
three weeks, but this will depend on circumstances. The 
bed must have air whenever possible. This should be done 
on warm sunny davs by removing the sash for about three 



64 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

hours in the middle of the day. Rake the surface of the 
bed gently, exercising care that the plants are not injured. 
Until well up, the bed need not be uncovered every day, 
and must not be on cold, cloudy or stormy days. The 
plants must be exposed more or less as they grow and the sea- 
son advances until a week before planting-out time comes, 
when they should be uncovered night and day to harden 
them. The beds should be made about six weeks before 
the plants are needed. 

These delicious and universal favorites delight in a sandy 
loam plowed five or six inches deep and heavily manured. 
The best manure for this crop is well rotted horse manure. 
Before planting, or about May ioth, work the soil as fine 
as possible. Make furrows where the rows are to be, three 
feet apart. Scatter the manure (compost is best) in these; 
cover with plow or hoe by drawing the soil from the sides. 
L,evel the ridge with a steel rake. 

About May 20th set the plants one foot apart on this 
ridge. Do this just before or after a rain if possible, or 
water them thoroughly. The time for setting is ruled by 
the season. The plants will take root in forty-eight hours 
when all danger from transplanting is over. A long rooted 
plant is best and should be set to touch the manure or com- 
post. The hoe may be used to good advantage at the first 
cultivation. When the vines are running nicely they 
should be lifted up occasionally to prevent their forming 
new roots. L,ay up early and dig before frost has injured 
them. Cut worms should be caught and made an "exam- 
ple of . " A few broods of young chicks scattered through 
the patch will keep down the bugs. Sweet Potatoes may 
be dug as soon as large enough and the crop must be har- 
vested before frost. 

The old plan of raising this gem of crops, though almost 
out of date now is still one of the best and is certain and 
cheap. The plan was to make a hog or cow yard on a spot 
suited to the growth of the "Potato,'' and the crop grown 
on this. Here you can raise the largest and finest tubers 
you ever saw. This is also a splendid spot for turnips. 

After digging allow the tubers to dry, then place in a 
warm, dry place in sand or road dust gathered in summer. 

Potatoes (ySolanum tubeiosum). — The Potato is a native of 
this country and was first discovered by Sir Walter Raleigh 
in 1586 in Virginia and has become one of the most valuable 
products of the soil and is in universal use throughout the 
entire civilized world. 

The Potato, like all robust growing vegetables, can be 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 65 

grown with varying success on soils of varying composition 
and in all stages of fertility, but a sandy loam is best suited 
to their growth. Clover sod is excellent and will produce 
good crops when well worked and properly fertilized. 
Heavy soils are liable to produce a sickly, diseased crop 
and the flavor is also inferior to those raised on a light, 
dry soil. An old pasture field in good fertility will pro- 
duce splendid crops, as the decaying sod fills the place of 
manure the first season. But as all grow Potatoes and must 
use such soil as we have, whether it is suitable or not, we 
must make as much as possible out of our land and cir- 
cumstances. 

The manure should be broadcasted on the surface and 
either plowed or harrowed in. The latter is sometimes 
preferable, especially if the manure is thoroughly decayed. 
If the soil is in good fertility very little fertilizing will be 
required. In. highly enriched soil the crop will be more 
liable to disease than in cases where the soil is naturally 
good. Fresh manure often produces a rough, scabby crop 
of tubers. The best fertilizers are those of a dry or ab- 
sorbent nature, bone dust, lime, plaster, superphosphate of 
lime, etc. In wet localities these are quite beneficial as 
they not only promote growth but are a preventive against 
disease. A good dressing of wood ashes is good even on 
rich soil. 

When the main crop is to be grown in the garden, plant 
as early as the soil is in good working condition and har- 
vest as soon as ripe. In so doing the soil may be used for 
turnips, late cabbage, etc., (in this case seed of some early 
heading variety should be sown) or other second crop veg- 
etable. In the garden the rows need not be more than 2 x / 2 
feet apart and the hills 18 inches and if the soil is mellow 
as it should be, about 6 inches deep; while if the soil is 
hard, wet clay, not more than 4 inches. Cut the "sets" 
with two or three eyes to each. It is also a good plan to cut 
the seed a few days before needed, so that the cuts wiljlieal 
over before planting. By so doing the sets will not be so 
liable to decay, and, too, they will come up sooner. I 
would not under any circumstances recommend the use of 
small, whole potatoes for seed as the "eyes" are small. 
This means weak, spindling tops and as a strong, healthy 
vine is as essential to the tubers as healthy lungs or hearts 
are to our good health we may be excused for saying, "no 
top, no tater." Then again we do not use the nubbins of 
corn or light wheat or oats for seed, and why use small 
Potatoes? 

The first crop planted should be of some extra early va- 



66 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

riety. While as a rule these are not good yielders, they 
fill the vacancy between the old and new crop. The main 
crop should be of some of the more robust-growing later- 
maturing varieties. After planting keep the soil mellow 
by giving it a light harrowing as soon as the potatoes 
are well sprouted. This is quite important, especially if 
the soil is inclined to be hard, as it gives the plants a chance 
to get through and also to get a "start in life" and at the 
same time destroys a crop of weeds. Do not hariow after 
they have come up. As soon as the tops show enough to 
follow the rows start the cultivator or hoe and loosen the 
soil close to the plants and draw a little mellow soil up to 
them. They may even be slightly covered without injur- 
ing them. This not only kills another crop of weeds, but 
also protects the Potatoes from the ravages of the potato bug. 

For planting, select medium sized tubers of the form 
characteristic of the variety. By planting at the depth 
given, very little hilling will be necessary. L,ow, flat ridges 
are the best, as they retain the moisture and keep the soil 
cool, which is so much needed from the time cultivation 
has ceased until the crop has matured, which is necessary 
to good yields; while high, abrupt hills shed off the rain 
too readily, leaving the roots dry, which is detrimental to 
the crop. 

To test the quality of the Potato it should be eaten with- 
out the addition of any seasoning and will be found best as 
soon as cooked. New varieties are originated by sowing 
the seed from the "seed balls," which is saved as is tomato 
seed and sown in fine, rich soil and carefully cultivated. 
The crops will be of various forms and colors and occasion- 
ally a variety of real merit and worth will be obtained; but 
this is not an every-day occurrence. 

Cultivate your crop thoroughly and ridge up just before 
the plants come into bloom. Keep the bugs in check by 
the methods given in the chapter on Injurious Insects, and 
success will be yours. Pull all large weeds out of the ridges 
to give the patch a tidy appearance and to prevent their re- 
seeding the ground. For myself there is no crop on the 
farm that gives more pride than a large crop of nice, large, 
smooth Potatoes. The crop should be harvested as soon as 
the tops have matured and spread where they will be dry 
and cool until they have gone through the "sweat." 

When storing for winter it is a good idea to sort them, 
placing each grade by itself, storing those which you wish 
to keep in a cool, dry and dark place. The small ones 
make splendid feed for little pigs when boiled and mashed 
and mixed with their food. Handle the tubers carefullv 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 67 

when sorting so as not to bruise them or they will decay. 
Nicely sorted Potatoes give a much finer appearance than a 
"mixed lot" and are much nicer to cook and also give a 
"well set" appearance to any table. The tubers may be 
buried or pitted in the garden as are beets, carrots, etc. , 
but there is no place better suited to their storage than a 
well ventilated cellar. 

Radish (Raphanus sativus). — A book entitled "The Rad- 
ish" was written before the time of Christ. The ancient 
Greeks used to offer turnips, beets and radishes in their ob- 
lations to Apollo. The first was offered in dishes of lead, 
the second in silver and the third in ' 'vessels of beaten 
gold." 

To obtain good, crisp, sweet eating Radishes they must 
be grown quickly. The most suitable soil is one moder- 
ately light, and which has been fairly manured for some 
previous crop. Sowings should be made throughout the 
summer so as to always have a supply. Beautiful, crisp 
Radishes may be had throughout the winter by sowing 
some of the winter varieties in August. 

For an early crop seed should be sown in the hot bed in 
drills five or six inches apart and half an inch deep. Give 
but little heat and plenty of air. For an earfy crop outside 
sow on a south border under the shelter of a fence or build- 
ing if possible. A supply of fresh, sand}^ loam from the 
woods is better than manure for the Radish crop. As soon 
as the first leaves appear sprinkle with ashes or soot (when 
dry) to save them from the little black flea beetle. 

The winter varieties should be sown in July or early in 
August when they will make fine large roots for winter 
use and will be greatly relished. The3^ should be dug be- 
fore severe freezing weather and pitted out of doors or 
buried in earth in a cool cellar. They will then keep crisp 
all winter. An hour before using place in cold water. The 
heart leaves of the Radish should be eaten along with the 
Radish to aid in digesting the Radish itself. The young 
seed leaves may be used as a salad while the green seed 
pods, especially of R. Catidatus, make excellent pickles. 

Radishes may be sown thinly along with carrots, beets, 
etc, to good advantage. 

Rhubarb or Pie-Plant (Rheum kybrzdum).—;Thisvegetable, 

familiarly known as Pie- Plant, is cultivated for its leaf 
stalks, which are used for pies and tarts. No private gar- 
den large or small should be without its bed of Rhubarb, 
as it comes very early and is quite healthful. 



68 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

It succeeds best in a deep, somewhat retentive soil. The 
richer the soil and the deeper stirred the better. Sow the 
seed in drills six inches apart and an inch deep and thin the 
plants to six inches apart. The soil should be rich and 
mellow, when strong plants will be obtained in one season, 
but very little cutting should be done until the third year. 
In the fall after sowing transplant the young plants into 
highly manured soil three feet each way and give a dressing 
of coarse manure every fall. Do not allow the plants to 
exhaust themselves by running to seed. Plants set out in 
rich soil in the spring are in fine condition the second season. 

To do the best Rhubarb must be divided and reset every 
few years. The bed, if prepared with care, will stand sev- 
eral years if the soil selected is a rich, deep loam that is 
mellow and not subject to injury by drought. As it is a 
gross feeder the soil can scarcely be made too rich ; it should 
be plowed deeply and the subsoil should also be broken, in 
all to the depth of 15 to 18 inches. The planting is best 
done in April or November. If done in the fall some of 
the heads will winter-kill and will need replanting. The 
soil should be put in as good order as for corn. The sets 
are then set in rows at the distance given and covered two 
inches deep, one set in a place, with fine soil. Care should 
be taken that the sets do not become withered from expos- 
ure to sun or wind. 

The cultivation the first year is simply frequent tillage 
or hoeing to destroy the weeds. The stalks should be al- 
lowed to grow, so as to establish the roots. The second 
season the stalks will be ready to gather but you must cut 
sparingly until the third season. For three or four seasons 
the crop will be in perfection. Give the bed a very heavy 
dressing of manure ever} 7 fall after the frost has killed the 
leaves. It will be necessary to cultivate two or three times 
in the spring to destroy the weeds that may appear. 

In the spring two or three weeks before the frost has 
gone, cover a few of the roots with barrels and bank these 
with a heap of horse manure and in a short time you will 
have tender and delicious Pie-plant in abundance. Or an- 
other way is to dig up some well grown roots in November, 
storing them in a cool place until February, when they may 
be taken out and placed in the cellar and covered with a 
few inches of loam. No light, but a temperature of 6o° is 
all that is necessary, except that the roots will need an 
abundance of water as they come into growth. Pull the 
stalks when about a foot long. 

The forced roots are worthless for future use and are 
thrown away. To have a supply of nice juicy stalks for 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 69 

fall use keep the old ones pulled and cultivate in August 
and growth will again commence. Rhubarb will thrive 
under almost any treatment when the soil is moist, but not 
wet. 

Sage {Salvia officinallis). — As this herb is an universal 
favorite it may be well to give the reader a few hints as to 
its culture. 

Sow the seed in drills one foot apart and cover about an 
inch deep with very fine soil. This should be done in the 
spring when the soil has become warm. When the plants 
have grown a few inches in height set them in rows eighteen 
inches apart each way. Cultivate several times during the 
season. 

Sage is quite hardy and if the soil is not wet it will re- 
main in the garden all winter, but it is best to give some 
protection, however. In the spring take up the plants, 
separate the roots and reset them. 

Some gardeners treat this crop as an annual where it is 
grown on a large scale by sowing the seed in the spring, 
gathering the leaves before frost and then plowing the plants 
under. I think, however, for garden use it is best to follow 
the directions given, cutting the stems or plucking the 
leaves just before the plants bloom, spreading them in the 
shade to dry. If seed is desired allow some of the best 
plants to ripen. When ripe the seed is black and when it 
reaches that condition the stems bearing it should be cut 
and .dried. Holt's Mammoth is the best and is grown from 
plants (that is, by layering) only. 

Plants of either variety may be grown by laying down 
some of the branches and covering them with soil. If 
grown at home you are sure of it being fresh; while if ob- 
tained at the grocery it is liable to be old and its flavor gone 
or almost so, making it of little value. 

Salsify ( Tragopogon porrifolius) . — This is one of the most 
delicious and healthful of vegetables and should be more 
generally grown for winter use, when the supply of really 
good vegetables is so scarce. It prefers a fairly good, 
light soil; but to have well-shaped, clean and straight roots 
use thoroughly decayed manured thoroughly mixed with 
the soil which should be stirred to a good depth. Soil 
made rich for some previous crop is best suited to its growth, 
as coarse manure would surely cause the roots to grow un- 
even and ill-shaped. 

Prepare the soil thoroughly and sow as early as the soil 
can be worked. It should be sown quite deeply, about two 



70 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

inches, giving the culture recommended for the parsnip. 
The rows should be about one foot apart. When ready thin 
to six inches apart. The roots are perfectly hardy and may 
remain where grown all winter but must be dug early be- 
fore growth commences, as the quality deteriorates rapidly 
after that; or they may be taken up and stored in a pit as 
are beets, carrots, etc. 

Salsify has a grassy top and a long, white, tapering root 
which closely resembles a parsnip, while it closely assimu- 
lates to the taste and flavor of the oyster, when properly 
prepared, for which it is sometimes used as a substitute — 
hence its name, Oyster plant. The roots are either boiled 
or mashed and made into fritters, in which form they are 
delicious, and in fact a great luxury. 

Spinach (Spinacea oleracea). — Spinach thrives in any good 
garden soil but the richer the soil the more succulent will 
be the leaves. 

For a succession of this crop. sowings of the round leafed 
sorts should be made from early spring to June. For win- 
ter use seed of the hardy varieties may be sown in August 
or September, in rich but well drained soil in rows one foot 
apart, and when about one inch wide the plants should be 
thinned to four inches apart. On the approach of winter 
the plants should be protected by straw, leaves or litter in the 
north. Seed of the ordinary sorts should be sown in drills 
one foot apart and one inch deep. Thin as above and cut 
the plants while young and tender. 

Spinach makes a most delicious dish and cooks a beauti- 
ful green, is very hardy and extremely wholesome and pal- 
atable. All Spinach should be cut before hot weather or 
it will be tough and stringy. In the southern states it 
needs no protection but will continue to grow most of the 
winter. The New Zealand variety ( Tetragonia expansa) 
supplies the place of the ordinary varieties during the sum- 
mer months. Sow in May where the plants are to grow 
and they will yield abundantly all summer, requiring but 
very little attention. 

Squash {Cucurbita ovifera). — As stated in pumpkin cul- 
ture the Squash has been known for centuries. These, like 
the other members of the Cucurbita family, are of tropi- 
cal origin; therefore it is useless to plant them before the 
soil is warm and all danger of frost or cold nights is past. 
And as they make a very rapid growth there is no necessity 
of getting the seed into the ground so early as to endanger 
the crop. Squashes are strong feeders and must have a 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 71 

rich soil. It is most economical to manure in the hill as for 
melons, pumpkins, etc. Hen manure makes an excellent 
fertilizer for Squashes. 

For the "bush" varieties make the hills three feet apart, 
while for the "running" varieties they should be twice this 
distance. The former are used while young and tender, 
while the latter when thoroughly ripened will usually keep 
till spring, when the bush varieties are again ready. When 
properly matured the winter varieties are dry and sweet, 
while if not thoroughly ripened they are watery and lack 
sweetness and richness and will not keep through the win- 
ter. These, like melons, should be encouraged to make a 
strong growth early in the season. 

The shell of the Hubbard and some others when ripe is 
as hard as the shell of a cocoanut. When ready for use the 
skin of the summer varieties may be cut with the nail with- 
out difficulty, while if any push is required they are too old 
for use, and will be tough and stringy when cooked. The 
winter varieties in some sections are more difficult to raise 
as they are subject to the attacks of the borer which 
cuts them off under the surface, and for this reason the 
plants should not be thinned before they are a foot long to 
insure against loss. 

The Squashes should be gathered before any hard frosts, 
and should be stored in a cool, airy room where they will 
usually keep well till late in the spring. All varieties 
should be sown as early as possible after the soil becomes 
sufficiently warm. A few hills may be sown earlier and 
covered with straw if there is any danger of J. Frost nip- 
ping the tender plants. The land should be rich; the richer 
the better, and should contain sufficient sand to make it 
warm and light. A southern slope is best for all vine crops 
so they can secure the warm rays of the sun. Cultivate 
the space between the rows as well as around the hills un- 
til the vines cover the surface. Watch for and destroy the 
bugs and cultivate quite shallow around the plants. I have 
often grown good crops when planted with early potatoes, 
thus economizing space. 

Some of the winter varieties are equally good for summer 
use if they are used while quite young. If these are planted 
the one sowing will do for both seasons. When gathering 
the crop care must be taken not to break the stem from 
those intended for winter use, as the slightest injury will 
increase the liability to decay. 

Turnip (Brassica Rapa). — Every garden should contain 
a supply of these throughout the season. A rich, mellow 



72 



THE FARMER'S GARDEN 



soil with a fair amount of moisture is most suitable for 
growing sweet, crisp and tender turnips, but any soil well 
stirred and manured will grow them well. This splendid 
vegetable is very easily affected in flavor as well as form by 
weather, soil, culture, etc. 

A very good crop may be grown on soil previously occu- 
pied by early potatoes or any early crop. After digging the 
potatoes, level and firm the soil by rolling or otherwise to 
retain the moisture and sow the seed either broadcast or in 
drills. I would prefer to drill them as they can then be culti- 
vated which will greatly hasten their maturity. Getting 




Storing Vegetables for Winter Use. 

The above illustration really belongs in the general intoductory, pages 5 to 24, 
but was by mistake omitted. 

Directions— Select a spot that is high and dry, and place straw to the depth of 
6 or 8 inches on the ground. Pile the vegetables, (beets, carrots, turnips, pota- 
toes, etc.), on this, putting from 5 to 20 bushels in a pile, heaping them up cone 
shape. Now cover them with straw or marsh hay. This may be omitted (except in 
case of potatoes), but is of great advantage in keeping the vegetables clean and as 
a protection against frost. On this straw a small drain tile should be set to serve 
as a ventilator. Soil should now be thrown on the straw and around the tile 
(packing it firmly so as to prevent the heavy rains and melting snows from soak- 
ing in), and to a sufficient depth to prevent the freezing of the contents of the pit 
—from 6 inches to 1 foot is usually sufficient, according to your locality. On the 
approach of severe weather the tile should be filled with straw and a board laid 
on top to exclude frosts. When severe weather sets in cover the mound with corn 
stalks or straw as a further precaution, and vou can enjoy vegetables all winter 
as fresh and crisp as when first dug. Rats and mice are very destructive to vege- 
tables thus stored and must be guarded against. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 73 

the soil into a finely prepared state before sowing is of the 
greatest importance. For an early crop sow in April, while 
for a succession of summer and autumn crops make an oc- 
casional sowing up to the end of July. For winter use sow 
in August or September. 

Turnips to be of fine quality must be grown quickly; 
therefore sow in drills twelve to fifteen inches apart, thin- 
ning them to eight inches apart. Keep free from weeds 
while small by giving them an occasional cultivating which 
will also greatly facilitate their growth. 

Turnips may be preserved until spring by cutting off the 
tops about an inch from the bulb and storing in the cellar 
or cool shed and covering them with dry sand; or they may 
be pitted in the garden like other roots. Or store them in 
barrels along the cellar wall and cover with sand or turf, or 
they may be piled on the cellar floor and covered with straw 
eight or ten inches deep. 

History proves that Turnips were in use as a garden vege- 
table before the christian era. Where we have long win- 
ters the family gardener should always try to keep the table 
well supplied with vegetables. If you have a dark corner 
in your green house or a cellar that excludes frost, a few 
inches of sand or soil may be placed on the floor; on this 
Turnips may be placed close together and gently pressed 
into it, after which give them a watering and close them 
up. In a short time your heart will be gladdened by beau- 
tiful blanched leaf stalks. These should be cut and tied in 
bunches as is asparagus and cooked in a similar manner; 
they will then be pronounced "excellent." In this way 
you can have a very delicious vegetable all winter by plant- 
ing at intervals. 

Tomato (Lycopersiaim esculentinn) . — The growth of this 
delicious vegetable has progressed by "leaps and bounds" 
and will continue to advance in public estimation. Only a 
few years ago when grandmother was a girl they were 
known as "love apples" and considered as being poisonous, 
being grown as a curiosity, their bright scarlet fruits being 
considered very attractive. It is a mistake to suppose that 
there is any difficulty in its cultivation, as it may be suc- 
cessfully grown in any well kept garden. 

Sow the seed in hot bed or box placed in a sunny window 
where the temperature does not fall below 6o° , about the 
first of March or ten weeks before the last frost is expected, 
in rows about five inches apart and one-half inch deep. 
When the plants are about two inches high transplant in 
boxes or hot beds, setting them about four inches apart 



74 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

each way, in same temperature; or they may be set in small 
pots one plant to each pot and set them in the hot bed; by 
this method the plants are rendered more stocky and 
branching. Give the plants plenty of air on pleasant days 
to prevent their becoming "drawn' ' and to make them bushy. 

Transplant to the open ground as soon as all danger from 
frost is past, in hills 3x3 feet apart for an early crop, on 
a light soil with a dry subsoil, having previously mixed a 
shovelful of thoroughly decayed manure with the soil. On 
heavy soil not suited to an early crop the plants should be 
set 4x4 feet apart. In transplanting dig a hole large 
enough to hold the roots without much crowding, set the 
plant and pour water into the hole and gently fill up the 
hole with mellow soil, shading the plants from the sun for 
a day or two until they become established. These and 
egg plants are the second choice of the potato bug, the 
"old fashioned" one especially. To hasten the maturity 
of the first fruits, pinch out the tips of the vines and all the 
secondary shoots that appear above the flowers. The to- 
mato may also be grown in the green house by following 
the above rules. While some train their plants to a single 
vine others prefer a small ladder, while others allow -them 
to take the course provided by nature, i. e.,that of lying on 
the ground. 

There seems to be no preventative for the rot which quite 
often attacks the tomato. As is well known, if the chick- 
ens can get into the garden they will play havoc with the 
crop. Watch for the large tomato worm, for they will de- 
stroy your vines if they themselves are not killed. These 
worms make a peculiar sound when disturbed and are said 
to be poisonous. 

There is another species of the tomato plant known as 
the Strawberry, Husk or Ground Cherry tomato, {Alke- 
kcngi) which grows enclosed in a husk, similar to the 
ground cherry, and are cultivated similar to the Tomato 
proper. The fruits are about the size of the hickory nut, 
and of a bright golden yellow color. When used as fruit 
for dessert, in pies or preserves they are simply grand. 

By picking all ripe fruit from tomato vines the yield will 
be greatly increased and .the period of bearing greatly 
lengthened. All rotten specimens should also be gathered. 
In very rich garden soil tomatoes often make such a rank 
growth of vine as to shade and blight the blossoms. To 
prevent this thin out the branches so as to admit sun and 
air to penetrate, or try the Tree tomato tied to a single 
stake. Tomatoes are best when used fresh from the vine. 
A slight check received while the plants are small will ma- 
terially lessen the crop. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 75 

Quantity of Seed Required 

to produce a given number of plants and to sow an acre of 
ground. Good seeds should always be sown regardless of 
price. Poor seeds are dear even as a gift. 

Names of Seeds and Number of Plants. Amount Per Acre 

Artichoke, i ounce to 600 plants, 6 ounces 

Asparagus, 1 ounce to 1500 plants, to transplant, ..2 pounds 

Barley, 2 y 2 bushels 

Beans, Dwarf, 1 pint to 1 quart to 100 feet,.. 1 to 2 bushels 

Beans, Pole, large, 1 quart to 100 hills, 3^ bushel 

Beans, Pole, small, 1 quart to 200 hills, iy 2 peck 

Beet, garden, 1 ounce to 100 feet of drill, in rows 3 

feet apart, •. 4 pounds 

Beet, Mangel, 1 ounce to 100 feet, 6 to 8 pounds 

Brocoli, 1 oz to 9000 plants, iy ounces 

Brussels Sprouts, 1 ounce to 12000 plants, 1 ounce 

Buckwheat , y 2 bushel 

Cabbage, 1 ounce to 6000 plants, 2 ounces 

Carrot , 1 ounce to 200 feet of drill , 3 to 4 pounds 

Cauliflower, 1 ounce to 7000 to 9000 plants,... 1 to y 2 ounces 
Celery, 1 ounce to 35000 to 70000, if sown thinly, 2 ounces 

Clover, White and Alsace, 6 pounds 

Clover, Lucerne, L. Red and Crimson Trefoil, 8 pounds 

Clover, Medium , 10 pounds 

Collards, 1 ounce to 9500 plants, to transplant, 2 ounces 

Corn , Broom , 10 pounds 

Corn, Pop, (Rice), 2 quarts 

Corn, Sweet, 1 pint to 100 hills, 300 feet of row, 

S to 10 quarts 

Corn, Field, 8 to 10 quarts 

Cress, Fine Curled, 1 ounce to 12000 plants, Water 

Cress, 1 ounce to 160000 plants, Upland Cress 

1 ounce to 80000 plants, 12 pounds 

Cucumbers, 1 ounce to 50 hills, in hills 3x3 feet, 3 pounds 
Egg Plant, 1 ounce to 6000 plants, 4000 per acre,. 34 ounce 
Endive, 1 ounce to 100 feet, in rows 3 feet apart,.. 3 pounds 

Flax, sown broadcast y bushel 

Garlic, 1 pound to 10 feet 

Gourds, 1 ounce to 25 hills, 

Grass, Kentucky Blue, 2 bushels 

Grass, English Blue, 1 bushel 

Grass, Hungarian Millet, y to 1 bushel 

Grass, Fawn, Mixed 3 to 4 bushels 

Grass, Orchard, Perrennial Rye, Red Top, Fowl .... 
Grass, Meadow and Woods Meadow, 2 bushels 



76 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Grass, Redtop, Fancy, 8 to 10 pounds 

Grass, Timothy, % bushel 

Hemp, % bushel 

Kale or Borecole, i ounce to 9000 plants, 2 ounces 

Kohl Rabi, 1 ounce to 6000 plants, in row 3 feet 

apart , 4 pounds 

Leek, 1 ounce to 9000 plants, 100 feet of drill 4 pounds 

Lettuce, 1 ounce to 1200 ft., 30000 plants 3 pounds 

Martynia, 1 ounce to 100 plants, 5 pounds 

Melon, Musk, 1 ounce to 50 hills, in hills 4x4 ft. 3 pounds 

Melon, Water, 2 ounces to 50 hills, 3pounds 

Mustard, varies greatly, 

Nasturtium , 1 ounce to 200 feet, 15 pounds 

Oats 2 bushels 

Okra, 1 ounce to 50 feet or 50 hills, 8 pounds 

Onion, Seed, for large bulbs, 1 ounce to 200 feet. .4 pounds 

Onion, Seed for sets, 50 to 60 pounds 

Onion Sets, vary greatly according to size, 1 quart 

to 40 to 100 feet, 8 to 10 bushels 

Parsnips, 1 ounce to 200 feet, 3 to 4 pounds 

Parsley, 1 ounce to 200 feet, 15000 plants, 4 pounds 

Peas, Early, 1 quart to 125 feet, 2% bushels 

Peas, L,ate, 1 quart to 200 feet, 2^ bushels 

Pepper, about 1 ounce to 5000 to 9000 plants, 10000 

plants per acre, 1 toi^ ounces 

Potatoes, 8 to 12 bushels 

Pumpkin, 1 pound to 300 hills, 3 to 5 pounds 

Radish, 1 ounce to 100 feet, on an average, 14 pounds 

Rhubarb, 1 ounce to 2000 plants, 2^ ounces 

Rye, 1 % bushels 

Salsify, 1 ounce to 100 feet, 8 pounds 

Spinach, 1*4 ounces to 100 feet, in drills, 8 pounds 

Squash, Summer, 2 ounces to 50 hills, 3 pounds 

Squash, Winter, 2 ounces to 25 hills, 4 pounds 

Tomato, 1 ounce to 10000 plants, sown thinly, 2 ounces 

Tobacco, 1 ounce to 2500 plants, 3 ounces 

Turnips, 1 ounce to 200 feet of drill, broadcast 1 

pound, in drills, 2 to 3 pounds 

Tares or Vetches, 2 ^ bushels 

Wheat, 1% to 2 bushels 

The above is based on seeds of first class qualitj'. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 

Number of Trees, Plant or Shrubs. 



77 



After giving the foregoing we give the following table so 
that you can easily ascertain the number of trees, plants or 
shrubs required to plant any given space at almost any dis- 
tance: 



Distance apart 



No. of plants per acre 



3 inches by 3 inches 696,960 

4 " "4 " 392,040 

6 " "6 " 174,240 

9 " "9 " 77,440 

1 foot by 6 inches 87,126 



I ' 

1^ 

2 
2 

2^ 

3 

3 

3 

3 

3^ 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4 

4^ 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5% 

6 

ey 2 
7 

8 

9 
10 

I I 
12 
13 

15 
16 



' " 1 foot 43,56o 

feet by 1^ feet 19,360 

" 6 inches 21,792 

" 1 foot .' 10,896 

" 2}4 feet 6,960 

" 6 inches 29,040 

" 1 foot 14,520 

" 2 feet 7,260 

" 3 " 4,840 

" 3 *A feet 3-555 

" 6 inches 21,780 

" 1 foot 10,890 

" 2 feet 5,445 

" 3 " 3,630 

" 4 " 2,722 

" 4^ feet 2,151 

" 6 inches I7>4 2 4 



1 foot 

2 feet 

3 " 
4 
5 

5% 
6 

ey 

7 

8 

9 
10 
1 r 
12 
13 

15 
16 



8,712 

4,35.6 

2,904 

2,178 

' i,742 

feet 1,44° 

1,210 

1,031 

888 

680 

537 

435 

360 

302 

257 

222 

193 

T70 



78 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

feet by 17 feet 150 

134 

120 

108 

69 



17 te 


et by 17 tee 


18 ' 


' " 18 " 


19 ' 


( " 19 " 


20 ' 


' "20 " 


25 


" 25 


30 ' 


'30 " 


33 ' 


' " 33 " 


40 


' 40 " 


50 ' 


'50 " 


60 ' 


' " 60 " 


66 ' 


' "66 " 



■■•■ 40 

27 

17 

12 

IO 

By reference to this table and the preceding one it is a 
very simple matter to calculate just how much seed or the 
number of plants will be required to plant a given space. 
Of course it is impossible to tell to a certainty just how 
many plants a given amount of seed will produce, as much 
depends on the quality of the seed used; but good seed will, 
with proper care, give about the number stated. It is al- 
ways a good plan to test your seeds as to their vitality, 
purity, etc. The following is a good way: Place 100 seeds 
in a small box of earth or sand; keep at a temperature 
about the same as they would be if in the open ground or 
hotbed as the case might be. If good they will soon germi- 
nate. The number germinating will indicate the percent- 
age good. Plant accordingly. Age has a marked effect on 
the vitality of seeds. Fresh seeds are always to be desired, 
as they germinate more quickly. It is said, however, that 
the older cabbage seed is, not to have lost its vitality, the 
better; while the older vine seeds are, the thicker will be 
the flesh. In a work of this nature we do not have space 
to enter into the details of this, but a great deal may be 
learned by experimenting and noticing the effects of such 
experiments. As to how long seeds will retain their vital- 
ity is uncertain as so much depends on the state of their 
maturity when harvested, and the way in which they were 
afterwards cared for. For examining seeds as to purity, 
scatter them on a piece of black card board when the for- 
eign grains may be readily observed. 




Every garden large or small should produce sufficient 
small fruits for at least home requirements, for the follow- 
ing reasons: First, because they materially lessen the ex- 
pense of keeping up the table; second, because they are 
healthy and nutritious diet; and third, because no garden is 
complete without them. By judicious selection and care- 
ful planting you may have an abundance of ripe, delicious 
berries from June ist to October ist; strawberries for June, 
raspberries for July, blackberries for August, and grapes 
for September and October. 

It is a very common sight in nearly all gardens to see the 
fruit bushes of all kinds planted along the fences, causing not 
only a loss of half of the fruit, as it can only be borne on one 
side of the bushes, but causing much unnecessary labor in 
keeping the soil worked and unless cultivated frequently 
the plot soon becomes an unpenetrable jungle of weeds and 
briers and will be pronounced "no good." 

The hardiness of a plant is not determined by the severity 
of the weather so much as by its ability to stand the alter- 
nate freezing and thawing in close succession. For the 
reason just given I would prefer to have the small fruit 
plot on the north side of the garden, especially if it is the 
highest and if there is some kind of a wind-break to pro- 
tect the bushes, as this will cause the snow to drift around 
them and be longer about them, making a natural protec- 
tion, while the slope of the soil will cause the surface water 
to drain awaj' quickly, so that it will not stand around the 
plants and damage them by freezing about the crowns. The 
most suitable soil in which to grow small fruits is a deep 
rich loam well drained. Never under any circumstances 
use weak plants or plants that are infected in any way, or 
disappointment is sure to be your reward. 



Strawberry {Frag aria virginiand) . — As Strawberries are 
the first to mature their delicious fruits, we will first consider 
their culture. The first thin? to do is to start right; and 



80 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

that means to select a good clean plot of ground, prepare it 
thoroughly and set out the plants. Strawberries will thrive 
on any good soil that will produce good garden crops or a 
good crop of corn. Prepare your soil as early in the spring 
as circumstances will permit by plowing deep, thoroughly 
pulverizing, heavily manuring and well draining. There are 
so many ways of culture that it is difficult to say which is best. 
For garden culture, set the plants two feet each way and 
let one runner grow between each plant one way and keep 
off all other runners. This would cause the plants to be 
one foot apart in the rows until the first of September when 
onty the surface should be cultivated, so as to destroy what 
few weeds would grow after this, as the plants now begin 
to produce numerous lateral runners, which if disturbed 
would injure the crop. For large plump berries keep the 
plants in hills. 

Although some plant in August or September, which will 
answer in many cases, I would recommend spring planting. 
But if one has good potted plants and is careful in planting 
he may have a crop the following season. These potted 
plants are obtained by filling small pots with rich soil and 
sinking them up to the brim in the earth near the best 
plants in July, when vigorously throwing out runners; and 
press the runners where the plant is forming down into the 
soil of the pot, placing a small clod or stone to hold it in 
place. Nip off the end of the runner beyond the plant. As 
soon as the roots fill the pot cut the runner from the parent 
plant and turn the new plant out and plant with all the soil 
clinging to the roots. 

When planting, draw a line and make the hole with a 
trowel or spade. Take the plant in the "left hand, spread 
the roots fan shaped in the hole; press the soil to the roots 
and the work is done. Be sure your plants have good 
roots. Do not cover the crown of the plant or it will die. 
Never allow the plants to wilt while setting. Keep them 
wet and the soil will adhere to them and cause them 
to grow quickty. A good plan is to keep the plants in a 
bucket with the roots in water. If the roots are long cut 
off about one-third of their length. This will cause them 
to produce a multitude of new roots which is very benefi- 
cial. Commence to stir the soil early in the season before 
the weeds begin to grow, keeping the soil clean and mel- 
low throughout the season. Pinch off all blossoms as soon 
as they appear for if left on they will fruit and cause many 
of the plants to die and weaken all of them. 

When the ground freezes late in the fall so that it will 
hold your weight, cover the plants with straw, leaves or 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 81 

strawy manure. Do not cover until the soil is frozen hard 
nor so deep as to smother the plants, and remove cover- 
ing before the plants start in the spring. This mulching 
not only protects the plants from the cold, from heaving 
out of the ground by the alternate freezing and thawing, 
but also keeps the fruit clean and the soil clean and in fine 
condition throughout the fruiting season. When straw- 
berries require washing they lose a considerable part of 
their flavor. 

Where economy is necessary stick to the old favorites. 
Don't experiment with high priced, highly lauded varieties 
more than on a small scale. Leave experiments to those 
who have money to spare. In selecting varieties be content 
with such varieties as your neighbor succeeds with as a great 
many of the new ones are worthless and dear as a gift. 

The strawberry bed cannot be kept in one place as it 
must be renewed quite frequently. 'A very satisfactory 
plan is to plant a new bed each year, plowing up the old 
one as soon as done bearing. This is an excellent spot on 
which to raise some splendid turnips or late cucumbers. 
Economy is wealth, and wealth is what we all want. 

There are three varieties of Strawberry plants as distin- 
guished by their sex. These are Staminate, Pistilate and 
Hermaphrodite. The first is purely male, the second purely 
female, while the third is a union of both sexes. The 
former never bears but is used to fertilize the pistilates; 
while the latter or hermaphrodites are bi-sexual and pro- 
duce of themselves. The pistilate varieties include some of 
our most productive varieties when planted near those of a 
perfect flowering character. Be sure to use well rotted 
manure freely. 

Raspberry. — This splendid fruit is next in season to the 
strawberry, and is not only delicious but very healthful and 
should have a place in every garden. The soil best adapted 
to their growth is a rich gravelly loam, not too rich, but 
should be in good condition. Where they are planted in a 
too rich soil they are apt to grow too rank and be easily 
killed by the severe winter weather. 

Raspberries are of two classes — Antwerps and Black caps. 
The first propagates itself from "suckers" like the black- 
berry, while the latter increases from "tips" which grow in 
the latter part of the season from the branches which bend 
over and take root. If these fail to root naturally they 
should be buried in August or September where a supply is 
desired. Treat all surplus ones like weeds. It is best to 
plant Antwerps in rather thin soil and manure iri the hills, 



82 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

using well rotted manure. Black caps (Rubus occidentalis) 
require richer soil. 

Make the rows five feet apart and set the plants about 
three feet apart in the rows and about three inches deep; 
spread the roots in every direction, then cover the roots 
with fine soil. If planted in the autumn, make a mound of 
earth over each hill to prevent the water from standing 
around the crowns, and to prevent the frost from heaving 
them out. In the spring draw it away. Care should be 
taken not to break the tender germ at the root of the plant 
when planting; for if broken off it will take considerable 
time to start another if it starts at all. Cultivate thor- 
oughly, destroying every weed if you expect success. When 
the plants have attained one foot in height nip off the tip of 
the plant; this will cause them to branch and become stocky. 
All branches should be treated in a similar manner, and the 
second year trim all steins to within one foot of the main 
stalk. When this is not attended to the plants are liable to 
over bear and be almost useless afterwards. The second 
season after planting they will produce a few berries. Cul- 
tivate the same as first year. 

When the plants are about two feet high nip out the tips 
of the plants and when the side shoots are of same length 
they should be treated in like manner. As soon as the 
fruiting season is over, cut out the old growth (that is that 
which has just borne) so as to give the new growth plenty 
of space; trim back side branches in the spring. When 
trimmed in this manner stakes are not necessary. After 
the first year cultivation should be shallow so as to not in- 
jure the roots and cause them to throw up numerous sprouts. 
Treat all suckers as weeds, cutting them off with a sharp 
hoe just underneath the surface, but not deep enough to in- 
jure the roots. Allow about three stalks to come up in 
each hill every year. 

Clean out the bushes thoroughly and burn all trimmings. 
It is not safe to cultivate after July as they will grow too 
late and consequently winter kill. Raspberry plantations 
arrive at perfection the third year after their formation, and 
if properly cared for will produce for a long time. As a 
rule it is not advisable, however, to retain them for more 
than seven or eight years; and whenever there is a falling 
off in yield it is a pretty good sign that the plot should be 
renewed. 

The Blackberry, — This delicious favorite follows the rasp- 
berry, and as there is certainly none more wholesome ev- 
eryone should raise at least sufficient for home use. There 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 83 

are, however, a great many people who depend on the fence 
corners for a supply. As these are often of very inferior 
quality, and are not always to be had, everyone should 
have a generous supply for daily use, and should have 
them where they can be readily obtained, for there is no 
fruit more easily grown. 

Select a plot of ground not very moist or rich. If ele- 
vated, so much the better, as they are not so liable to win- 
ter kill. Moderately rich soil of a clayey or gravelly na- 
ture seems to suit the Blackberry, for if the soil is very rich 
they make too much wood and are not so productive. Plant 
as early in the spring as possible. Make furrows where the 
rows are to be and spread thoroughly rotted manure or 
compost in these. This will give the young plants a good 
start, causing the roots to grow along the row instead of 
spreading out. Make the rows six feet apart and three 
feet between the plants. The space between the rows may 
be occupied by corn, potatoes, etc. 

Cultivate shallow but thoroughly, being careful not to 
injure the roots and never take plants from a bearing plan- 
tation. The cultivation for the first season is the same as 
that given for raspberries. In the second as well as suc- 
ceeding seasons nip off the tips when the plants attain a 
growth of four or five feet. If they are left to grow their 
entire length they will not bear so well and, too, they will 
bend over and interfere with the future care of the planta- 
tion. Use the hoe on every sucker as though it was a weed, 
except those that are required for the future crop. Keep 
these in a direct row not more than eighteen inches 
apart. 

As soon as the fruiting season is over cut out the canes 
that have borne fruit, as the} r are of no further use. Mulch 
with corn stalks, dry manure, leaves, or anything that will 
answer the purpose. This not only prevents evaporation 
which is detrimental to the crop, but as it decays it will 
furnish a good dressing of manure. In early spring stir the 
soil lightly. 

From 75 to 100 plants will produce all the berries needed 
for all purposes. Cultivate like corn. As before stated 
never dig plants from those intended for fruiting. Roots 
may be taken up in the autumn and cut into pieces about 
four inches long and packed in sand, keeping them moist 
but not wet. Buds will soon develop and in the spring 
plant as are peas or beans. Keep the soil mellow and clean 
and by the coming fall or spring your plants will be ready 
for use. And, oh yes! Don't wait till the old patch is 
worn out before starting: a new one. In case the soil crusts 



84 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

around the young plants they must be helped through care- 
fully or they will break and be injured. 

There is another species of this fruit known as the Dew- 
berry. The fruit is handsome, pips large, of a deep shin- 
ing black, juicy, melting and of finest flavor. Itslow trail- 
ing habit will probably require mulching of straw or other 
material to prevent the fruit from lying on the ground. In 
size and quality it equals any of the tall growing sorts. The 
plants are perfectly hard} 7 , healthy and remarkabfy produc- 
tive, with large show}' blossoms. The fruit which ripens 
soon after raspberries is often one and a half inches in 
length by one inch in diameter. The Dewberry should be 
found in every garden. 

Currants. — This is a fruit found in almost every garden, 
and of all, we might say, is the most sadly neglected. 
Hardy, easily cultivated, standing neglect well, but respond- 
ing liberally to generous treatment, and really no garden is 
complete without its currant bushes. Its uses are many, 
but for jelly is quite unsurpassed, while for pies they are 
also excellent, and when successfully grown for market, 
either green or ripe, are quite profitable. 

They should be set on deep, rich loam and given clean 
cultivation. The soil cannot be made too rich. As gen- 
erally found in the garden it is a mass of tangled brush 
from which the worms have trimmed the leaves, conse- 
quently the fruit is small, and few, and far between, where- 
as if it was judiciously pruned, manured and mulched, the 
fruit produced would be doubled in size and quantit}'. Be 
liberal with manure and you will be liberally rewarded 
with nice plump rich fruit. In garden culture take good 
one or two-year-old plants and after having thoroughly 
prepared the soil by pulverizing, set them 3 by 4 feet apart 
each way and keep the soil clean and mellow by thorough 
cultivation and the third year you will reap your reward. 

Cultivate shallow to prevent injuring the roots. Prune 
out the old wood, so that each shoot will have plenty of 
space in which to grow and so the sun and air may reach 
all parts of the bush so that the fruit will mature properly. 
To obtain the best results they should be heavily mulched 
in the spring, and for this purpose there is nothing better 
than coal ashes. Straw may also be used. Det no more 
than five or six shoots grow in each hill. All others should 
be treated as weeds. 

The best way to propagate is by layering. For this pur- 
pose use new growth and lay the shoots down in autumn. 
These may be set out the next spring. Another good way 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 85 

is to make cuttings from new growth; that is, one year old 
wood. This may be done in early fall as soon as the leaves 
fall from the bushes. Cut off the ends of the branches 
about ten inches long; pulverize the .soil to the depth of 
twelve inches; dig holes deep enough to set the cuttings in 
so that the two top buds will be above ground, then pack 
the fine soil firmly around the base of the cutting and just 
at the top of the cutting place the soil more loosely. 

Treated in this way they will root before winter and to 
prevent J. Frost from heaving them out they should be 
heavily mulched with light manure. This should be care- 
fully drawn away before growth commences in the spring. 
Or, the cuttings may be made as described and kept in 
moist sand or buried away from frost and planted in early 
spring. I prefer the latter way as it gives the plants a 
start before winter. They must be planted as early as pos- 
sible. When planted in the fall the soil should be tramped 
firmly around them in the spring or many of them will die. 

The Black varieties have a flavor entirely distinct from 
the red or white varieties, and, so far as I know are entirely 
free from the ravages of the Currant worm. 

Gooseberry. — Every well kept garden, be it large or small, 
will contain a generous supply of these, for who is there 
who does not enjoy Gooseberries in pies, tarts or jam, or 
when served as fruit when the berries have ripened. This, 
like other small fruits,' is too often sadly neglected, and 
hence fail and are pronounced "no good," when they are 
really of vety easy culture. 

Gooseberries require and delight in a good, rich, loamy 
soil, with a generous supply of manure each season. The}' 
are quite hardy. Regular pruning ever}' season is essential 
for the production of fine fruit. All varieties, especially 
English varieties, require a partial shade and should be 
planted on the north side of a board or picket fence as they 
"are susceptible to the heat of the sun. 

They should also be heavily mulched as are blackberries. 
Mildew often attacks the Gooseberry, to prevent which the 
bushes should be sprayed as soon as the leaves appear with 
potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur), one ounce to four 
gallons of water. This should be done several times during 
the summer. It is also claimed that cutting out the center 
of the bushes so as to admit more light and air to penetrate 
to the fruit will also prevent the berries from mildewing. 

They should be set in rows four feet apart and three feet 
in the row, and do not allow more than six or eight stems 
to grow in each hill. Cultivate thoroughly and keep free 



86 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

from weeds, and they should be given a dressing of wood 
ashes annually. Never allow the worms to strip the leaves 
from the bushes. I think the best time for planting is in the 
spring as they then become well established before winter. 

Gooseberries as well as currants and cane fruits of all 
kinds commence growth early in the spring, so that where 
the planting 'is to be done in the spring it should be done 
as early as possible. Where fruits of any kind are set out 
in the autumn they should have a mound of earth placed 
around them so as to prevent the water standing at their 
roots; this soil should be tramped firmly around them in 
the spring. Plant in cool, moist, but not wet soil, as no 
fruit tree will succeed with wet feet. 

Gooseberries are propagated similar to currants, i. e. , by 
laying down branches and covering them with soil. If this 
is done in the spring they will be ready to set out in the 
fall and vice versa. New varieties of fruits of all kinds are 
grown from seed saved from ripe specimens. It is seldom, 
however, that varieties of special merit are obtained and 
are therefore often quite valuable. 

Coal ashes are a valuable mulch for Gooseberries as well 
as currants. They keep down the weeds, retain moisture, 
help to prevent mildew and if sifted on when the foliage is 
damp will assist in preventing the ravages of the worms. 
Coal ashes and kitchen slops can be profitabl}* used on 
small fruits. 

Grapes {litis vinifera). — There is scarcely a yard so 
small, either in country or town, where room for a few 
grape vines cannot be found, as they may be admirably 
trained on the side of a building, on the fences, summer 
houses, etc. , occupying but little room while they supply 
an abundance of the most healthful fruit; or they may be 
planted between the rows of berry bushes where these are 
of sufficient width. The history dates back to the remotest 
period of which we have any account of the works of man 
since the deluge of Noah. 

Plant in mellow soil which has been deeply plowed. Set 
the plants a little deeper than they stood in the nursery. 
Corn or other crops may be planted between the rows the 
first season. The Grape is among the most wonderful of 
fruit-bearing plants for longevity, productiveness and the 
excellence of its fruit. They delight in a high and dry 
gravelly clay of moderate fertility, with a porous subsoil. 

Select well known varieties of first class one or two-year- 
old vines. With the soil plowed deeply, dig holes wide and 
deep enough to receive the roots without crowding. Mark 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 87 

out the rows eight feet apart and about the same distance 
between the vines for the short growing varieties, and for 
rank growing varieties about twelve feet apart in the row. 
At the same time plant a large stake in the hole with the vine. 

When setting out the vines cut back the plants to two or 
three eyes, and when growth commences in the spring rub 
off all but the strongest one and as this grows tie to the 
stake and pinch off all lateral shoots to one bud. The dis- 
tance between the vines should vary with the soil; how- 
ever, a rich soil will require wider planting. It is bad pol- 
icy to plant too thickly as the fruit will not develop properly. 

Before planting, the vines should be properly pruned; 
the top should be cut back to two or three buds and the 
roots shortened to about a foot, while the bottom of the 
holes should be well loosened with the spade or other im- 
plement. Some surface soil should be mixed with this dirt 
before the vine is set. Keep the roots moist while plant- 
ing. The roots should be well spread in the hole and cov- 
ered with surface soil pressed firmly around them; then fill 
the hole with mellow soil. This also holds good when 
planting an}' kind of plant. 

Never use strong manure next the roots; if used, place 
it on the surface. Compost is good to mix with the soil. 
Bone dust or ashes are the best of fertilizers where the soil 
needs enriching. As the future growth, health and pro- 
ductiveness of the Grape depend very much on its getting 
a good "start" in the world, good culture as for any other 
crop should be generously given. During summer keep the 
vines well cultivated, allowing no weeds or grass to grow. 
The surface soil especially should be frequently stirred. 

In the fall cut the vines back to two or three buds and in 
the spring before growth commences rub off all but two 
and tie the vines to the stakes. Then in the fall cut these 
two canes back to three or four feet, according to the 
strength of the vines. Young vines will sometimes bear a 
few bunches the second year, but it is best not to let them 
bear until the third season. 

At the beginning of the third year the trellis should be 
set up. Posts are set up between two vines and to these 
wires or slats are fastened. Wires are best as the wind has 
less effect on them and the vines cling to them. These 
wires are placed one above the other, the lowest one about 
two feet from the ground. The canes are bent hori/.ontaly 
and fastened to the lower wire and four or five buds allowed 
to grow, and each bud will set two or three more bunches. 
The fourth season two of the canes on each arm are per- 
mitted to grow, while the others are pruned to one bud, 



88 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

and from these the canes for next year's fruiting are al- 
lowed to grow. 

The fruiting canes must be cut back when they grow 
three leaves beyond the top clusters on the cane. It must 
be borne in mind that no fruit comes from old wood, but 
only from that of previous season's growth. The soil should 
be cultivated thoroughly in the early part of the season. 

Where pruning is done in the autumn the vines should 
be taken from the trellis and laid on the ground and if they 
do not stay down, some dirt should be thrown on the ends 
of the canes to hold them. It is not always necessary to 
do this, but is a precaution against winter killing. In re- 
gard to the time in which to trim there is difference of 
opinion, but I prefer the month of February, as our most 
severe winter is over and the sap has not commenced to 
flow to any great extent and will not before the wounds 
have healed so as to prevent bleeding. 

It has been well and truthfully said that "small fruits in 
the country are like Heaven — objects of universal desire 
and general neglect. ' ' There are various modes of trim- 
ming the Grape in this and other countries; "The short 
spur system," "The long cane system," "The close cut 
system," and "The horizontal arm system." The latter I 
prefer, as I believe it to be more in accordance with nature 
and it has many advantages over the other modes, although 
each have proven a success in various locations. 

The close cut system consists in cutting all the wood of 
the previous year's growth back to the main stalk, depend- 
ing solely on the latent buds for the next crop. The short 
spur system consists in cutting the canes back to one bud 
of the main vine. The long cane system consists in prun- 
ing out the two-year wood that bore fruit the year previous 
and cutting the new canes back to the length of two or 
three feet as circumstances permit. This mode is in uni- 
versal use. The horizontal arm system consists in a main 
vine extending each way from the stalk on the lower wire 
and the growth of the year previous cut back to two or three 
buds of the main arm or vine. Where the thinning process 
is in vogue, which consists in cutting out the surplus shoots 
before they blossom, the summer pruning is done by de- 
stroying all surplus shoots that start during the summer. 

When pruning always employ the same system as was 
used the previous season. Use manure as a mulch and do 
not place it directly on the roots. Do not allow the vines 
to be overgrown by weeds or you will get very little reward 
from your vine. Soil and situation make a great deal of 
difference in flavor. Those grown on 'gravelly soil will be 
the richest and sweetest. 



t iu'ttiMMiMuniMtrittUii*iiiiW^ 




KmmMWMwtmmwmwMmmwMWMMmwNmNWfPM 



Although our space is quite limited we realise that a 
treatise on the subject we have chosen for our book would 
not be quite complete without a few words on the above 
subject. While we cannot treat the subject at any great 
length we will endeavor to give a few "helps" in the de- 
struction of these pests. 

Cabbage Flea {Haltica striolata). — This is the first insect 
of any importance that appears, and is the little black flea 
that attacks the cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, radish, etc., 
and in fact all plants belonging to the natural order Cruci- 
fer<z. Not only does the flea destroy the first leaves, but 
the larvae feed upon the roots of the plants. 

Soot, ashes, lime (slacked), and dust scattered on the 
leaves is an effectual remedy. This must be done while the 
plants are wet and after every rain. Soap suds applied to 
the roots will destroy the larvae. 

Cabbage Worm. — The cabbage worm,, the larvae of the 
common white butterfly {Picris rapae), may be destroyed 
in several ways. That of hand picking is effectual but 
tedious and not to be desired. 

Kerosene emulsion, ashes, hellebore, saltpetre water, 
bran and road dust. Pyrethrum powder dusted into the 
heads is sure death to every worm. It should be mixed 
with five times its bulk of plaster. The application of liq- 
uid insecticides will not prove very satisfactory on account 
of the peculiar structure of the leaves which allows the 
water to roll off in drops and does not adhere to any part of 
them. Washing the heads out with cold water every day 
or two while the sun is shining hotly will destroy the eggs. 
The vessel containing the water should be held above the 
plants allowing the water to fall from a height, or it may 



90 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

be applied with a force pump. Poisonous substances are 
unsafe and not to be recommended. 

Cut Worms (Agrostes, Leucania, Mamestra, Hadena, Ncp- 
hclodes). — Of this pest there are several species including 
the Army Worm (Leucam'a iinipuncta). They do their 
work during the night and may be destroyed with paris- 
green or a piece of sod may be inverted by each plant; the 
worms will gather under these and they may then be caught 
and killed. 

Striped Cucumber Bug {Diabrotica vittata). — This pest 
which makes itself quite numerous may be kept in check 
by the use of plaster, tobacco scattered close to the hill, by 
poisons, or by cultivating ever}' day or two. Another 
method is to take a bottomless box twelve inches square 
and six or eight inches deep and cover it with mosquito 
netting. One of these inverted over each hill until the 
plants are in rough leaf will be a sure protection. 

Squash Bug (Anasa tristis. — This is the common "stink" 
bug and will, if not destroyed, soon destroy the vines. They 
come in pairs and if the first are killed before the eggs are 
deposited there will be but little trouble, but if not destroyed 
they will raise large families and become quite numerous. 
They may be destroyed by the application of kerosene emul- 
sion. The eggs should be gathered at least bi-weekly and 
all rubbish burned early in the fall. 

Squash Borer (Melittia ceto). — This pest destroys the vines 
by boring into the roots and destroying the pith. Date 
planting of main crop; destroying the vines attacked as 
soon as crop is harvested; and destroying moths. 

Asparagus Beetle (Crioceris aspaiagi). — Prompt actions, 
dusting with lime, arsenical mixtures of paris green and 
london purple. See also asparagus culture. 

Onion Maggot. — The larvae of the onion fly {Anthomyia 
reparian). The eggs are laid in May or June, on the leaves 
near the ground. The maggots burrow into the bulb, caus- 
ing them to decay. Dig and burn the affected onions, but 
for the best mode of destruction see onion culture. 

Celery Fly {Anthomyia ceparum). — Dusting the plants 
with soot or lime will prevent the fly from laying its eggs; 
but the most effectual way is to crush the leaves when the 
larvae (grub) is discovered. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 91 

Mealy Bug. — Fumigating with tobacco will effectually de- 
stroy them. 

Red Spider, — Frequent syringing will keep down the at- 
tacks of this pest. 

Green Lice {Aphides'). — Use kerosene emulsion. 

Snails. — Soot, salt or lime are a sure remedy when scat- 
tered on the ground. 

Ants. — Destroy their nests and sprinkle sulphur where 
they frequent. 

Wire Worms (Drasterius elegans, Melanotics fissi lis, etc). — 
There are about a dozen species of this pest. Place a small 
potato under the surface of the soil; this makes an excel- 
lent trap. This may be poisoned. Fall plowing and rota- 
tion of crops is also recommended. 

Currant Worm {Nemahtsventricosus~). — The currant worm 
should be destroyed promptly with insect powder or helle- 
bore, the latter — one ounce to two gallons of water. Or 
better still, throw wood ashes through the bushes while 
wet. There are many methods recommended but the above 
is quite effectual, is easiby and cheaply applied and is per- 
fectly harmless. Apply after ever} T rain and as soon as the 
worms appear. 

Potato Beetle {Doryphora io-lineata). — This is the common 
Colorado potato bug and has evidently come to stay. Paris 
green applied in the form of a spray or dusted on the foliage 
is the most easily applied and cheap remedy, but care must 
be exercised in its use wherever used that none may get 
where animals, etc., are liable to get at it. 

Bean Weevil (Brachus oblectus) and Pea Weevil {Bnicluis 
pisonun). — Place the seed to be treated in air tight boxes, 
place some bisulphide of carbon (very inflamable) in open 
vessels and place on top of seed. Cover to exclude the air 
and let it remain for twenty-four hours. 

Strawberry Weevil (A)ithononcus signatus). — Spraying 
with paris green. 

Strawberry Crownborer ( Tyloderma fragariac). — The eggs 
are laid on the crowns in June or July and when hatched 
the grub burrows into and destroys the plants. The worm 



92 THE PARMER'S GARDEN 

is white, about one-fifth of an inch long, and has a yellow 
head. Burn all infected plants, or plow up the bed. 

Grapeberry Moth ( Eudemis botrana). — The larvae eats the 
pulp and part of the seed; is quite destructive. No good 
remedy known. 

In fighting Injurious Insects it is always best to avoid 
the use of poisonous substances wherever possible to do so, 
especially if there are children about, for they are liable to 
get at the berries on which the poisons have been used, and, 
too, it is not safe to use berries, cabbage, cauliflower, mel- 
ons, etc. , that have been poisoned as some of the substance 
is liable to remain on them and cause serious results. 



Kerosene Emuesion (Insecticide), How to make. — Take 
one-quarter pound of hard soap, cut up and dissolve in two 
quarts of boiling rain water; while hot stir in one pint of 
kerosene. Stir briskly until no oil rises on the top.. Add 
water to make two gallons. While not in the least bit dan- 
gerous, this is sure death to all kinds of plant lice. Apply 
in the form of a spray or with the sprinkler. 

Bordeaux Mixture [Fungicide), To make. — Dissolve six 
pounds of sulphate of copper (copperas, green vitrol) in a 
tub or earthen vessel (metal vessels should not be used), 
and in another vessel slake four pounds of fresh lime, add- 
ing water sufficient to reduce it to the consistency of thick 
lime wash. This should be slowly poured into the copper 
solution straining it through a coarse cloth. An old ferti- 
lizer (gunny) sack is excellent for this purpose. To this 
mixture add sufficient water to make about fifty gallons. 

When desired a combined insecticide and fungicide may 
be made by adding one-quarter pound of paris green to the 
mixture. Apply in the form of a spray. It is quite poi- 
sonous. In using care must be exercised that none of the 
mixture falls on the grass where stock or poultry can get it. 
It is also well to remember that all liquid poisons should be 
kept well stirred while applying them, so that the poison- 
ous substances will be thoroughly mixed and evenly dis- 
tributed. Some spray pumps do this automatically and 
are preferable. 



How to Make and Manage the Lawn. 




In preparing the Lawn see that the work is well and prop- 
erly executed, and if needed have the soil thoroughly drained, 
as wet soil will not do for this purpose. Where the work 
is properly done it will last for years, while if done in a 
slip-shod fashion it will be a continual source of annoyance. 
Where there are any old stumps or rocks in the plot they 
should be dug out and the holes filled with soil. This 
should be packed firmly to prevent its settling and making 
holes. The surface should be perfectly even and smooth 
for various reasons. All hollows should have the sod taken 
from them and the holes filled with loam from elsewhere. 
Also remove all bumps from the surface. 

Now go over the Lawn and destroy every weed you may 
find in it. If you cannot pull them, pry them up with 
a digging fork, then pull them out and press the soil firmly. 
The soil should be harrowed and raked to reduce it to as 
fine a condition as possible as well as to level it, as nothing 
detracts from the appearance of a Lawn more than an un- 
even surface. Now your ground is read}- and next that 
concerns you is the seed. 

Just as earl}' as the weather is open and the soil free 
from frost and dry enough to work the seed should be sown. 
If one harrowing isn't enough harrow it again. Now take 
wooden rakes and rake off all the rubbish that may be there 
and remove it as you go along. After this if your soil is 
as good and rich as it should be on the surface it will now 
be ready for the seed; but if the soil is poor, recuperate it 
by giving a good dressing of compost composed of one- 
third or one-half of loam and the other half or two-thirds of 
well rotted manure. Spread this on to a thickness of one 
or two inches. This should be done immediatelv. Rone 



94 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

meal is also an excellent fertilizer for the Lawn as it is last- 
ing in its effects and is also free from noxious seeds. About 
600 to 1000 pounds should be used per acre. The time to 
sow the seed will vary with circumstances, but late in March 
or early in April is a good time. It will not be necessary to 
roll the soil, as the snow 7 s and rains will have compacted it 
sufficiently. 

The top dressing won't hurt the grass there may be at 
this time, but on the contrary will be a benefit to it, causing 
it to come up with renewed vigor, but it will not be even or 
thick enough and will require fresh seed sown all over it to 
get it equally green and in even sod. When sowing time 
comes break the crust that may have formed on the soil. 
For this a brush harrow is excellent; after this rake off the 
litter and cart it away. Then sow the seed broadcast and 
rake lightly and roll the soil firmly so as to cover the 
seed about a quarter of an inch deep. The seed should be 
of the best obtainable and should be a mixture of the finest 
varieties, embracing such as are hardy and of neat growth 
and best adapted to produce a permanent and fine turf 
throughout the season. 

As different varieties of grasses mature at different sea- 
sons, some early, others late, a mixture is absolutely neces- 
sary to produce a continual bright green. The following 
mixture is a good one: Two bushels Kentucky blue grass, 
two bushels red top, one bushel rye grass, six pounds of 
white clover; mix and sow at the rate of two to four bush- 
els, according to circumstances. The rye grass is for quick 
growth and must not be sown thick enough to injure the 
two finer grasses. Though disliked by some, clover is ex- 
cellent on clayey or stiff soil. The seed should be mixed 
with finely sifted loam or should be sown on a quiet day. 
Keep the seed well mixed or the clover will fall to the bot- 
tom of the heap. This may be prevented by mixing the 
seed with loam or sand as above. 

As stated above no one kind of grass will answer as it 
will not keep beautifully green all through the season but 
a mixture of several is necessary, as some are more luxuri- 
ant in early spring, others in summer and again others in 
autumn, and a proper combination of these various varie- 
ties is necessary to make a neat, velvety lawn. Old Lawns 
will be greatly benefitted if they are carefully raked so as 
to remove the leaves and dead grass that may be on them 
and then sprinkled w T ith the above mixture which will re- 
new the thin spots and places that have been killed by the 
winter or other causes. Then give it a thorough rolling 
with a heavy roller. When building a new lawn and after 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 95 

it is graded the first thing is to give the entire surface a 
thick dressing of black loam. This should be done in all 
cases wherever possible. The Lawn must have a good 
foundation to be beautiful as it should be. Where the 
ground is sloping it will require a heavier dressing than 
where it is level, as heavy rains may wash the top soil 
awa}', especially before the grass has become thoroughly 
established. 

The surface should be level and smooth as possible. One- 
half the seed should be sown in one direction and the other 
at right angles. Water should be used freely on Lawns as 
this gives that healthy appearance so greatly admired. No 
matter how much seed of a certain variety you may sow on 
a certain space it will support only so many plants, while if 
another variety is sown in connection with it a largely in- 
creased number of plants will be obtained as they thrive on 
different elements of the soil. 

Lawns must be kept rich if you desire a good, fresh, green, 
velvety crop of grass. As Lawn grass is a voracious feeder it 
will not thrive and hold its color unless it receives sufficient 
nourishment. The reason there are so many rusty, ding3~ 
Lawns is because this point is too little appreciated. A well 
fed Lawn is always a velvety one and is sure to be admired. 

Mowing repeatedly year after } r ear and raking off the 
leaves that fall from the trees, which neatness makes neces- 
sary, and which removes a valuable top dressing annually, 
requires artificial top dressing yearly of short, thoroughly 
decayed manure, or a dressing of commercial fertilizer in 
the amounts given. Stable manure is in some respects un- 
pleasant to handle, ill looking and quite odorous, and if 
used should be applied late in the autumn. Where done 
earlier it defaces the Lawn at a season when it proves of- 
fensive. Fine dry manure which is easily pulverized is 
best as it spreads neatly and evenly over the surface. This 
is quite essential or one spot will be over-nourished while 
another will be starved. But if this cannot be had coarse 
manure may be used if spread evenh r as possible, while if 
there happens to be a sharp November freeze followed by a 
thaw it will loosen the lumps and cause them to pulverize 
quite easily. This may be done with a smoothing harrow 
which will also spread them over the surface in a most com- 
mendable manner. 

Always prepare your soil thoroughly and sow the seed 
thickly in order to obtain a good growth at once, and press 
the soil firmly. Second only to that necessity — good seed — 
is time of sowing, quantity to use (be sure to use plenty), 
preparation, etc. It was at one time considered that the 



THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

clippings should be left on the lawn to act as a mulch, thus 
returning to the soil what it had extracted during growth. 
This, however, soon proved a mistake, as the dried grass, 
besides looking unsightly, prevented roots from tillering 
out and instead of its improving would soon ruin any Lawn 
if left on. The best way is as soon as the mowing is done 
to carefully rake up all the clippings and depend upon ma- 
nuring in the. winter to keep up the growth sufficiently to 
make a thick, velvety growth of verdure. 

As before stated there is nothing more essential in the 
adornment of the home than a neat, close-cut, well-kept 
lawn with a velvety turf dotted here and there with beds 
of flowers, for without it the palace would look dingy and 
the finest flowering plants and bedding scenes are insignifi- 
cant, while with it the most lowly cottage makes us feel 
that there is really "no place like home." 

Where they are to be had, rocks or various shaped stones 
may be utilized to make borders for the flower beds, etc. , 
as the> T may be placed in various forms and when white- 
washed or painted make a pleasing contrast with the foliage 
of the plants. They may also be built up to a height of a 
foot or more in any desired form and the inside filled with 
soil in which plants may be planted with pleasing effect. 
Shells of various shapes may also be used for borders or the 
edges of walks, etc. 

Ever}' Lawn should have nicely graveled walks laid out 
and the edges kept nicely trimmed. Where there are curves 
in these walks let them be graceful and not too abrupt or 
they will detract from the general appearance of the Lawn. 
To make the surroundings still more attractive the Lawn 
should be appropriately planted with trees and shrubs. On 
the smaller yards the largest growing trees are not desirable, 
or, if planted, it should be with a view of removing them 
when they become too large, and thus injure by their shade 
the other occupants of the soil. 

As a guide it may be well to say that in the arrangement 
of the trees and shrubs they should be set irregularly 
along the sides of the lawn and bordering to some extent the 
front. Only such varieties should be used as are conspic- 
uous for their beauty of form or foliage, or both, and the 
flowering shrubs should be selected with reference to their 
continual blooming from spring to autumn. 

In front of the main rooms of the dwelling and next the 
graveled walks can be beds of fancy foliaged plants such as 
begonias, coleus, dracenas, etc. , and bright blooming flowers 
such as geraniums, petunias, cockscombs and phlox, while 
somewhat more expensive are the carpet beds or mosaic bed set 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 97 

with plants of high colored foliage. These beds, if well 
cared for, will make a pleasing sight throughout the sum- 
mer until destroyed by frost. These are popular because 
they produce the effect desired — looking their very prettiest 
during the fine season of the year. They cannot be de- 
pended on for blooming, for they are not for that purpose; 
and a provision for a supply of flowers should be made for 
that purpose elsewhere. 

The beds should be of various forms; stars, crescents, cir- 
cles, ovals, Maltese crosses, etc. These may be considered 
as examples from which one can deviate in numberless ways 
in the forms and sizes of beds and the plants used in filling 
them, but always subserving the laws of good taste and 
color blending, and if you have an eye for the beautiful you 
will be well paid for all trouble in endeavoring to make 
home beautiful b} 7 its surrounding attractions. 




Notes on Their Culture. 

"Flowers are God's Jewels for earth's adornment." 

Nothing adds more to the appearance of the home than 
its surroundings. After giving instructions on the build- 
ing of the lawn, the next point which comes under our con- 
sideration is the cultivation of Flora's treasures — -Flowers. 
The pleasure to be derived from the cultivation of Flowers 
is known only in its fullest extent to those who have 
watched every day's mysterious developments from the sow T - 
iug of the tiny seed to the grand display of the fully devel- 
oped plant. 

In spite of good seed and careful management, there must 
come now and again unaccountable failure and disappoint- 
ment. Experienced growers sometimes fail, and try again 
with the same seed and succeed, so do not be discouraged 
by an occasional failure, for you will have to contend with 
unfavorable weather, insects, and numerous adverse cir- 
cumstances; but these are but the background of the pic-, 
ture — the little trials which make the eventual success sq , 
sweet. 

In raising Flowers from seed, not only care but knowl- 
edge is required — knowledge of the requirements of the dif- 
ferent classes of Flowers — annuals, biennials, perrenials 
and the tender greenhouse Flowers. A careful perusal of the 
following notes, though brief, will be of advantage to the 
inexperienced. 

Flower seeds may be sown in the open ground as soon as 
the soil becomes dry and easily crumbled after spring frosts 
have disappeared. They may be sown in the borders 
where they are intended to bloom, or in seed pans or beds 
and transplanted to their flowering beds. The latter is the 
best plan, especially with very small seeds such as pansy, 
as it enables the plants to become established earlier, and 
also because during the period of early growth the soil oc- 
cupied is not attractive. There must be discretion exer- 
cised as to the depth to w T hich seeds should be covered — 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 99 

small delicate seeds merely on the surface, some barely 
pressed into the soil, and others fully one-quarter inch deep 
— the depth in every instance being regulated by the size of 
the seed itself. As the sprouts of small seeds must neces- 
sarily be small, if sown as deep as large seed they will be 
unusually late in starting or more likely will perish in the 
ground after germinating, for want of strength to break 
through the surface. 

Seedling plants can be nearly as well grown in the window 
of a sitting room or parlor — provided the temperature is 
right — as in a greenhouse, for seeds do not require a direct 
light while germinating. The best things to sow seeds in 
are pans or boxes (tobacco boxes are nice, as the smell of 
the tobacco drives away insects to a large degree) two or 
three inches deep with crack in the bottoms through which 
the water can drain quickly, which is quite essential. The 
soil should be of equal parts of good garden loam and sand 
thoroughly mixed and passed through a sieve. Fill the 
boxes to within half an inch of the rim, and press the soil 
as firm and level as possible. Now sow the seed, scatter- 
ing it evenly over the surface. With a common sieve dust 
just as much soil over the seed as will cover it. Then 
dampen the soil carefully with a spray or otherwise, being 
careful not to "wash" the soil. 

If the box is kept at a temperature of about 6o°, giving 

it a shower of spray whenever the soil appears dry, very 

few seeds will fail to germinate. The average period of 

-j germination of seeds is from ten to fourteen days, but some 

% seeds of a hard body often lie dormant for weeks or even 

i months. The Acacia, Clematis, Polyanthus and others are 

examples of this. 

Germination of such seeds will be greatly accelerated by 
placing them in a cup of lukewarm water allowing them 
to soak for a few hours before sowing. And in many 
Flowers the period of blooming will be extended by picking 
off the blooms when past their best, thus preventing the 
strength of the plants being exhausted in the ripening of 
the seed pods. 

As soon as the seedlings appear they will require careful 
attention, and should have as much sun and air as possible 
on pleasant days. Prick out of the seed pans or boxes into 
other pans or boxes, placing them about one inch apart, 
and shading from the sun for a few days until they are well 
established. When large enough they may be planted sep- 
arately in pots, and kept till the proper season arrives for 
planting in the open — that is when there is no danger of 
frost. 



100 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Some varieties of hardy Flowers such as Sweet Peas, 
Convolvulus, etc., are best sown where they are to grow, 
but none but the most hardy varieties of Flowers should be 
sown in the open ground until both soil and air have be- 
come warm — about corn planting time. It is a good plan 
to sow only a part of your seed at first, and then in a week 
or so the remainder. The thinning out of plants in their 
earlier stages is, quite important. 

It is always best to sow thicker than the plants are re- 
quired for various reasons, but if the young plants are al- 
lowed to remain in a crowded condition they soon spoil 
each other; they must therefore be thinned out, but with 
caution. At first remove only enough to give the remain- 
der clear space in which to grow, and more when they are 
two or three inches high. _ The number of plants left at 
the final thinning must depend on the size and habits of the 
plants themselves — if large and spreading single plants are 
to be preferred, if not of a spreading nature two or three 
may remain, at equal distances apart. In all cases begin 
thinning in time, before the)' become crowded. 

Plants may be transplanted whenever large enough to 
handle. L,ift them carefully with the aid of a trowel, re- 
taining as much of the soil as will adhere to the roots. 
Moisten the soil in the boxes before disturbing the plants. 
Transplanting should be done in wet or cloudy weather. If 
the soil is dry a good soaking with water before and after 
transplanting is advisable. Shade from the sun for a few 
da3^s. 

The importance of uniform attention to watering will 
soon be learned by observation and experience, but the in- 
experienced cultivator may be reminded that to allow the 
young germs to get parched, as well as too frequent and 
irregular watering, often leads to the loss of the whole. 
Plants in pots should only be watered when the surface of 
the soil becomes dry — not daily or at stated times, as is too 
often practiced, but when necessity requires it. 

Liquid manure is quite beneficial to plants whose roots 
are confined in pots, but should never be given to very 
young plants, or oftener than twice a week and always in 
small quantities. It is advisable to smoke pot plants every 
few days with tobacco smoke to prevent the ravages of the 
green fly. The cause will usualty be found in the plant be- 
ing root bound, to avoid which re-pot frequently during 
the growing season. Heat and moisture are quite essen- 
tial to the germination of all seeds but as these cannot be 
regulated in the open ground, seeds of tender plants require 
the assistance of the hotbed or cold frame. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 101 

In making a selection of Flowers, everyone should have 
the beautiful annuals and perennials. A small collection 
will furnish an abundance for the entire summer — the As- 
ter, Antirrhinum, Balsam, Dianthus, Delphinium, Pansy, 
Petunia, Phlox, Portulaca, Stocks, Verbena and Double 
Zinnia, should have a place in your collection. For a low 
edge there is nothing better than the Sweet Pea and Nas- 
turtium; while for fragrance there must be Mignonette, 
Sweet Alyssum, Pinks and Carnations. For masses of col- 
or and ribbon border there is a wide field to choose from — 
the Phlox in its many distinct colors is one of the best for 
this purpose. Candytuft is neat and makes nice button 
hole bouquets, while a few Everlastings and Ornamental 
Grasses will come in nicely for indoor decoration in the 
winter. Then the beautiful Gladioli among the tall sum- 
mer Flowers; the Dahlia for autumn, while the Ldy is un- 
surpassed in its graceful beauty. 

Flowers raised from seed are known as Annuals, Bien- 
nials and Perennials. 

Annual^. — For the best summer display the garden is de- 
pendent on this class which is grown from seed sown ever}- 
spring, as they arrive at maturity, bloom, produce seeds 
and die in one season. They are sub-divided in three class- 
es, hard}', half-hardy and tender. Hard}' Annuals are 
those which require no artificial heat at any period of their 
growth. Every stage of their growth from the germina- 
tion to the ripening of the seed may be passed in the open 
ground. They are the most easily cultivated of all plants. 
As a rule Annuals may be sown in the open ground about 
corn-planting time or when the weather has become settled. 
For a succession sow at intervals from March to Septem- 
ber. Seeds of the hardier Annuals may be sown where 
they are to flower; but as a rule it is preferable to trans- 
plant, as the plants are generally stronger and stand 
drought better. During very warm, dry weather and when 
the seedlings are first set out they should be watered fre- 
quently. If the weeds are kept in check as they should be 
and the soil frequently stirred the plants will receive the full 
benefit of the rains and dews, which they will not if the 
soil is allowed to become hard and weedy. Half-hardy 
Annuals are those species that require artificial heat in the 
earlier stages of their growth but bloom and ripen their 
seeds in the open air. They should be sown in pans or 
boxes in a gentle heat in February or March. By the end 
of March or early in April they will be ready for trans- 
planting to their beds in the open, but previous to this they 
should be hardened by gradual exposure night and clay. 



102 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Biennials as a rule do not flower until the second season 
from the sowing of the seed, and are only at their best one 
season, and for a limited time only. The}' are not there- 
fore adapted for a bed on the lawn, which should make a 
show of blooms all through the season. 

Perennials. — This class is composed of herbaceous 
plants, which die down during winter, but spring up at the 
return of spring and produce new stems annually. Many 
of the species improve by age, forming large clumps or 
bushes; b)' being divided, the stock is increased and the 
plant invigorated. Some of this class of plants like Antir- 
rhinum, Dianthus, Pansy, Stock, etc. , flower thefirst season, 
but true Perennials, like Biennials, do not flower until the 
second season. 

Hardy Biennials and Perennials require the same treat- 
ment as hardy Annuals. If seeds of these three classes are 
sown in boxes in March or April and so sheltered in a good 
cold frame they will make strong plants by spring and will 
bloom earlier, in the case of Biennials and Perennials a sea- 
son earlier. Or they may be planted in the open soil in 
March and on the approach of winter mulched with leaves, 
evergreen boughs, straw or litter as a protection against 
frost. In spring this covering must be carefully removed 
and the soil around them loosened, and when large enough 
transplant them to where the} r are to remain. 

Tender Annuals, Biennials and Perennials for window 
and greenhouse culture. — The best method to obtain an 
early bloom and to insure strength and vigor to the plants 
is to sow the seeds in pans early, placing them in a warm 
partially shaded window or warm greenhouse, or plunging 
in a moderate hotbed, carefully protecting them from the 
cold, shading from the midday sun and watering with a 
fine spray. The seeds require extra care in sowing, as they 
are very small and delicate. The pans or boxes must be 
thoroughly drained and should have a layer of stones or 
broken pots in the bottom. The seed should be sown in a 
very light rich compost, composed of two-thirds rich loam, 
one-third sand and thoroughly decayed cow manure, thor- 
oughly mixed together. Make the surface smooth by press- 
ing it with a board, and sprinkle a little sand over it; water 
with a fine spray. After the pans have drained, the seed 
should be evenly and carefully sown. Cover them very lit- 
tle, if at all. After sowing place the pans in a close frame, 
kept shaded as exposure for only a short time to the rays of 
the sun is enough to scorch the extremely delicate leaves 
and tiny roots of the plants. Water frequently, particu- 
larly if the house or frame is very warm. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 103 

Directly the plants are large enough to handle — 2 or 3 
inches high — they must be transplanted into other pans 
prepared as for seed sowing, and allowed to grow until the} 7 
touch each other; then shift into small pots and place in the 
cold frame. When the roots fill these pots, shift again in 
larger pots. They will not thrive if replaced in frame or 
placed on shelves in greenhouse near the glass. Re-pot 
as required. If troubled with the green fly fumigate with 
tobacco. The varieties belonging to this class are the Ab- 
utilon, Begonias, Chrysanthemums, Coleus, Cyclamen, Ferns, 
Gloxinias, etc. They may be planted in the lawn when 
they have attained sufficient size; this however should not 
be done before the end of May. 

Latin Terms. 

The meaning of some of the most frequently used Latin 
terms in the names of Flowers: Album or alba, white, ar- 
genta, silver; atropurpurea, dark purple; aurea, yellow; bi- 
color, two colored; tri-color, of three colors; striata, striped; 
candidissima, pure white; coccinea, scarlet; coerulea, blue; 
flammula, flame color; lutea, yellozv; marmorata, marbled; 
multicolor, of many color s; punctata, spotted; purpurea, pur- 
ple; roseum, rose or red; rubra, dark red; sanguineous, blood 
red; compacta, compact; densiflorus, close dowered; elegans, 
graceful; fragrans, sweet scented; flore pleno, double flowered; 
semi pleno, half double; grandiflora, large flowered; major, 
tall; minor, small, dwarf; maximum, tallest; monstrosum, 
monstrous; nanus, dwarf; odorata, sweet scented; pyramida- 
lis, pyrmidal shaped; robusta, strong. 

Abbreviations: Ha, hardy annual; hha, half-hard} 7 an- 
nual; ta, tender annual; hb, hardy biennial; hhb, half-hardy 
biennial; hp, hardy perennial; hhp, half-hardy perennial; 
gp, greenhouse perennial; gc, greenhouse climber; gs, 
greenhouse shrubs. 



104 THE FARMER'S GARDEN 

Calendar of Garden Operations for the Year. 

In a country so vast and varied as is ours, where the set- 
ting of the sun in the east is the rising of the sun in the 
west, and the summer of the south is the winter of the 
north, and the influences of soil and climate so widely dif- 
fer, it is impossible to give a calendar of operations to suit 
all sections at the same time of the year. From this reason 
the tiller of the soil must be guided by his own location, 
soil and climatic influences. 

January. — This is one of the winter months of this sec- 
tion, when there is little or nothing to be done with the 
soil. In favorable weather prepare hotbeds and cold frames 
for the future use of cabbage, egg plants and other plants 
that are to be grown for transplanting, Dress asparagus 
beds, trim fruit and shade trees and spread thoroughl} 7 de- 
cayed manure on lawns; mix with it some lawn grass seed. 
See that all unoccupied land has been thoroughly plowed 
and left in ridges to derive as much bene^t as possible from 
the action of the frost, which tends to lighten and sweeten 
the soil. Burn rubbish and scatter the ashes over the roots 
of fruit trees. See that celery in trenches and* vegetables 
in pits are thoroughly protected. Attend to plants in 
frames and protect from insect pests. Force hyacinths and 
all bulb flower roots. Along the Gulf plant Irish potatoes, 
peas, lettuce, radishes, etc. 

February. — Get ready for early planting. In milder sec- 
tions, if the weather permits, transplant trees, berry bush- 
es, rose bushes and horseradish. Get in manure; let it be 
well incorporated before sowing; fresh manure applied di- 
rectly to your crop may ruin it. If any pruning of small 
fruits has been neglected see to it now. Towards end of 
month sow tomatoes, peppers, cauliflowers, egg plants, etc. 
Sow perennials for early blooming. Mulch trees, bushes 
and vines. Dress lawns. Plant the following for early 
use if the climate and weather are favorable: Beans, beets, 
carrots, parsnips, spinach, radishes, lettuce, potatoes and 
other hardy varieties. Mulch rhubarb and asparagus. 
Turn all soil not turned previously. Transplant a few 
hardy plants to be nursed for extra early use. 

March. — Prepare the soil for seeding when in proper con- 
dition. Replant where seeds have failed to grow. Sow 
seeds as in February. Thin plants where needed. Salt as- 
paragus beds. Plant sweet corn. Pull the weeds. In 
northern states start your hotbeds and trim and mulch. 
Horseradish may be set in any spare corner. Spread 
manure everywhere. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 105 

April. — A busy month as far north as Ohio in the family 
garden, but don't plant until soil and weather are favorable. 
Hardy varieties may be sown in favored .spots. Plant as 
in last month with the addition of more tender plants at the 
end of the month. Replant where seeds have failed. Stir 
the soil around plants and kill weeds. Farther north trim 
shrubs of all kinds and care for lawns. Use the lawn mow- 
er and scatter seeds on bare spots. Keep all soil occupied. 

May. — High culture. All seeds may be sown this month 
as far north as Ohio. Stir the soil frequently around 
plants, but don't disturb the roots. Brush early peas and 
sow later ones. Thin plants in beds and transplant toma- 
toes, etc., as soon as large enough to handle. Prepare 
ground for celery 7 . Sow cabbage, cauliflowers, etc., for 
late use. Fight weeds and insects. Sow flower seeds. 
Plant lima beans. 

June. — Everything is doing nicely and in full growth. 
The hoe should have daily exercise. Transplant celery, 
tomatoes, sweet po&ftoes, late cabbage, kill weeds, and pre- 
pare soil for turnips. Use ground that has matured earl} 7 
crops. Keep the soil mellow to retain moisture and destroy 
weeds. Hill potatoes and water transplanted plants daily 
in the evening. Clear ground for succession and plant 
second crop. Sow perennials and biennials now. Dress 
asparagus beds with salt. Replant corn. 
,. July. — To induce quick growth cultivate often and give 
liquid manure. Where the ground is clear dress with ma- 
nure, spade deeply 7 and plant Brussels sprouts, kale, broc- 
coli, cabbage, etc. Destroy weeds before the seeds mature. 
Sow more turnips and snap beans for succession. Kill in- 
. sects. Nip the tips from runner beans. Trim tomato 
plants and tie a few to stakes if you want ripe fruit early 
and lucious. Look for bugs on vine crops. Mulch straw- 
berry 7 beds with old manure after rains. 

August. — Plants set out last month should now be strong. 
Southern gardens should be planted for a second crop of 
vegetables such as beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, potatoes and 
tomatoes. Cut out old brush from berry 7 bushes to encourage 
new growth. Destroy weeds on vacant ground. Straw- 
berries set out this month will bear next season. Cut out 
wild grass and weeds from the lawn. Early cabbage sown 
now will keep for winter. Earth up celery. Dig potatoes 
when ripe. Hardy flowers may now be sown. Early- 
beans may give a crop of snaps if sown early in the month. 
Pot calceolarias. 

September. — Turnips, mustard and parsley may now be 
sown. Celery fully srrowu should be well banked and wa- 



106 THE PARMER'S GARDEN 

tered and the tops protected from the sun. Gather ma- 
tured crops. In the south sow peas, onions and radishes 
for winter use. Set out berry bushes and trees and mulch 
to prevent the frost from heaving them out. Look out for 
frost. Pot bulbs for early bloom. 

October. — Pull the weeds in turnip beds; if green throw 
them on the compost heap, if ripe burn them. Sow seed on 
the lawn. Look after you; •:..mpost heaps and don't let 
the rains injure them. : •;: k- -hem as much as possible 
and turn over during ::• • •,.::;:■.'•. Mulch berry bushes 
with manure, and ccv . -i: • .■•.■■■.■::■■■■: ny beds between the 
rows with leaves or litt ^-. Trlx-5 bum ■ ..--d shade trees. Se- 
lect seeds and store ij^reftsUy. ;■■:::;■ ■;•::: :'al clearance of 
remains of gathered ^ps a;;-. : t x;U;; ;•.,•.:•:• . : ud put them 
in the compost heap- ^ ey .■■:<: ¥.<-.$■•» v .::■'.>:: :;>■. Set out 
trees and mulch them. ■> si! yaw^i. i-m^i Tomato 

vines may be pulled and hu 1 a vv&r^ : ": : cc: \.o mature 

the green specimens. Plant uyacin; - i- -;;i ;:■■-, :-.:-'i:;sus, 
etc., for spring flowering. Prepi "t fo; ■■:.;:.:. 

November. — A continuation of tlu nQ ii; : .ri':l vvork oi \M:t 
month. Plow or spade your .garden an scali?.;; rnst&KrefcV: 
ery where and leave to the actions of u frost, t'rv.ne 
trees and vines and burn the brush to destic-} :.v-,. ; :;v: : . 
Transplant fruit trees of all kinds and mulch. Dn ■■:■ • yea? 
lawn with fine manure. Gather late crops and 'or- ('tis 
winter. Put your frames away for winter. Give c. "-ty ho; 
trenches extra protection. Mulch strawberry beds to pre- 
vent heaving. Lay cuttings to increase your supply of 
small fruit plants. 

December. — In the southern states sow radishes, onions, 
peas and potatoes. Prepare hotbeds and sow cab- 
bage, tomatoes, etc., for early planting. Prune trees, 
vines, rosebushes and shrubs. Cover lawns with manure 
and re-seed where needed. Plow every part of the garden 
that has not been so treated and cover with manure. Fork 
over your compost heaps to promote decay, keeping them 
flat on top. Cover with boards to protect from storms and 
subsequent loss. Procure leaf mold and store for future 
use. vSee that 3 T our garden is well drained before planting 
time. Burn rubbish and scatter ashes over roots of trees. 
Repetition in these hints is for different latitudes. 

Wishing you a prosperous New Year. 



AND ITS MANAGEMENT 107 



Conclusion. 

And now, kind reader, having borne me company through 
these pages our task is accomplished; we have come to the 
end of our little book, and must here part company. It is 
my hope you have received some benefit from the hints I 
have given, for my endeavo: has been to make them plain 
and practical throughout .jik- wisily Ui "lerstood by even the 
most inexperienced. 

To those who ha T v .■•:■ beer' f e: "\sted in the "Garden 
and its Manager-": •••;•;;. a$ee more that you miss 

a great many -.■ :■:;?.£; k>H - ■: U.kmi your table throughout 
the year— •-::'.•■ h;:s lv>th ■■'•.•':■:.' healthful and appetizing; 
while if ■■■<■■.; ■ ■.-■■.. i ';•• t<: ■?'?:• $? ! { -i your work as you should be 
much ■..:]■:■:. ■■■■:.■■.■;. ; ..::.: ' .-':'>.• ledge as well as profit will be de- 
rivftV; ir-j'.u :''■■■ W'ir.'i: of plants both "Vegetable" and 

i'Vii-J. -xm, .■■:■■ you be favored with your share of rain 
:■■:••; ,: :;.:.:v:::: i:'or without these our efforts would be in vain, 
• : : . -:.-j necessary for the well doing of all life — plant 
••• ■ ,' as animal. Remember, too, that "that which is 
wci-Zh. doing at all is worth doing well." This applies to 
KOthing more forcibly than in the management of the 
garden. 

Before parting company I trust we have been of mutual 
benefit one to the other and that you will take a more 
kindly interest in the Garden and its Management than 
heretofore, if this is possible. So wishing you much suc- 
cess in your labors, I beg to remain 

Your faithful, sincere and humble servant, 

J no. T. Teat, 

Feb. 1 2th, 'g.s. Cardington, O. 



INDEX 



PACK 

The Farmer's Garden and Its Management. 

Author's Preface 3 

Introductory 5-24 

The Iyocatioii 7-S 

The Soil of the Garden 9 

Preparing the Soil 9-10 

Tools 10-13 

leaving out the Garden 13-14 

Compost 14 

Manure 14-16 

Fertilizers 16 

Procuring Supplies, Seeds, Plants, 

Etc 16-17 

Raising Plants 17-19 

Watering and Transplanting 19-20 

Saving .Seed 20 

Hot-beds — Illustrated 21-23 

Cold Frame 23-24 

Cultural Notes— What to Grow and How to 
Grow It— Illustrated. 

Artichokes 25-26 

Asparagus 26-2S 

Beans 2S-30 

Beets 31 

Borecole or Kale 32 

Broccoli 32-33 

Brussels Sprouts 33 

Cabbage 33-36 

Carrots 36-37 

Cauliflower 37-3S 

Celery 38-40 

Chives 40 

Chicory 41 

Collards 41-42 

Corn Salad 42 

Corn, Sugar 42-43 

Corn, Pop 43-44 

Cress 44-45 

Cucumber 45-46 

Dandelion 47 

Endive 47-48 

Egg Plant 4 S 

Garlic 49 

Horseradish 49 

Herbs, Culture and Manner of Us- 
ing 49-51 

Kohl-Rabi 51-52 

I,eek S 2 



PACE 

l,ettuce 52-53 

Melon, Musk 53-54 

Melon, Water 54-55 

Mustard 55 

Mushrooms 55-56 

Okra 56-57 

Onion 57-59 

Parsley 59-60 

Parsnip 60 

Peas 60-61 

Peanut 61-62 

Peppers 62-63 

Pumpkin 63 

Potatoes, Sweet 63-64 

Potatoes, Irish 64-67 

Radish 67 

Rhubarb or Pie-Plant 67-69 

Sage 69 

Salsify 69-70 

Spinach 70 

Squash 70-71 

Turnip 71-73 

Storing Vegetables for Wnii.-r 

Use 7!? 

Tomato 73-74 

Quantity of Seed Required to 
Produce a given Number of 
Plants and^to Sow an Acre 

of Ground 75-76 

Number of Trees, Plants or 
Shrubs 77-7S 

Small Fruits— Illustrated. 

Strawberry 79-S1 

Raspberry 81-82 

Blackberry S2-84 

Currants 84-85 

Gooseberry ; 85-86 

Grapes S6-88 

Injurious Insects S9-92 

Kerosene Emulsion 92 

Bordeaux Mixture 92 

The I^awu, How to Make and 

Manage — Illustrated 93-97 

Flowers, Notes on Their Cul- 
ture — Illustrated 98-103 

Calendar of Garden Operations 

for the Year 104-106 

Conclusion 107 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



0000T3aT3b5 



